Sossusvlei Day 2

The 530 start was softened with tea, coffee and pastries. Boniface was keen to get started to make sure we beat the sun. Our destination today was the sand dunes of Sossusvlei itself inside the Namib-Naukluft National Park. It took around 1.5hour to drive there from the lodge, one of the restricting factors being the time the gates of the National Park open. The aim was to climb the dune named “Big Daddy”. The dunes were all numbered except for a few notables including Big Daddy, Big Mama and 45 (so named because it was 45km from the entrance!). Boniface explained that most of the elderly did 45 because it was the shortest, the closest to the parking lot, and the smallest. Pfft, we said. We’re not old. I’m pretty sure we ended up regretting that sentiment or at least I did!

A very early start

So we can beat this....

As the name implied, Big Daddy was the biggest of the dunes. It sits around 400m high which may vary depending on how much rain has fallen. It had a long undulating spine which started around 1km from the parking lot. Unlike the amateurs we had Boniface! He took us across the firm limestone flats and then hiked a steeper but much shorter climb onto the main spine of big Daddy. The others walked the long way along the whole spine doubling their walk on sand itself. Along the way, Boniface somehow had enough breath to also showed us insects and small animals of the dunes.

Have I already said that climbing Big Daddy was HARD WORK?!? Within each minute, it got hotter and I got more tired. I thought I was reasonably fit but obviously not fit enough! Somehow the children had enough energy and fitness to make the climb seem effortless. Thankfully Boniface was fit enough to follow them, as well as strong enough to carry 7L of fluid for the family, some of those being in glass bottles! At one stage my camera and children’s shoes were part of his load…Relief to finally reach the top was immense! I was rather proud of myself for not giving up!

Getting off Big Daddy was much easier. It was a straight walk down the sides into Deadvlei. For the children, it was a combination of running down, rolling down and even swimming down. Descent took longer than expected! Sand was surprisingly a good cushion. The anxiety associated with the steepness of the sides dissipated when it became apparent that you really couldn’t go down that quickly. By the time we did get down, the children had sand everywhere and I mean everywhere! All I can says was that I sure was glad the lodge would be the done doing the laundry. Deadvlei was famous for its landscapes of stark bare trees, some of which were over 900 years old, against red sand. The walk across the limestone flats back to the carpark seemed so easy….

Boniface leading the way. Big Daddy was the dune to the right of Bonidace. We would be climbing up the tiny trail just visible leading us to the lowest point of the spine

When you are young and have too much energy to climb other mini dunes

A seed beetle. It looks dead but it is alive!

I don't want to be Laurence of Arabia...

Nearly at the top...shessh

Finally at the top! Yes! AMAZING views

How one descends elegantly...

Ever thoughtful Boniface had a blanket so we didn't have to sit in the dirt while we emptied out a mini desert from our shoes

We started our walk from the carpark at around 730am climb and returned to the carpark just before 930. By now it was HOT and there were people only just starting out! Boniface, the champion had cold refresher towels for us in the jeep. He drove to a shady spot under a tree and proceeded to provide a tablecloth breakfast service! He had everything from muesli with yoghurt, tea and coffee as well as bacon and eggs…we felt so spoilt. Over breakfast, Boniface informed us that he was the guide for Bush Junior and his security detail. Brangelina, when they were still together, also wanted to stay at the &Beyond Lodge, but as they could not book the whole lodge due other guests having already booked, they had to look elsewhere. As an aside, the toilets at the national park entrance was very clean!

We headed back to the lodge and arrived around 1230 just in time for lunch. The welcome of the staff with friendly smiles, hello waves, cold drinks and cool refresher towels upon any return to the lodge had become addictive! Who was going to do this for us back home?!!? It was too hot in the middle of the day to do much so we enjoyed the air-conditioning of our rooms awaiting the weather to cool for our quad bike adventure.

Table service in the middle of the desert!

Guide and chef. He can do anything!

We were starving by now and the lodge was at least a 1.5 hour away

Hot breakfast!

He remembered what the children liked from our sunset drinks yesterday

Back to the relative cool of the lodge for lunch

The children by now know what they can order from Maretha

We headed back to the lounge at 4:40pm to meet up with Boniface who drove us to where the quad bikes were stored near the dunes. It was so still hot! The lodge were kind enough to accommodate the children. Under 16s were technically not allowed but Boniface found flat areas where there were able to have a go. It made Jonah’s day! And we discovered that Elliot was a hoon. This may not bode well for license time come his birthday…

Boniface described other amazing walks around the resort. He offered to guide us on a 4 hour trek which would take us to the caves in the mountain. It would be a 4am start so we could be sure to be back at lodge by 9am latest. As much as we had to resist our FOMO tendencies, we politely declined as we had another long drive tomorrow.

At the lodge, we chanced upon the Australian in house astronomer who informed us that this was a black sky zone hence the stargazing windows in the rooms. The lodge also had a telescope and it was a great place to star spot. She kindly offered to show the kids how to take cool phone photos of the moon, she also offered to be with us if we wanted to see the stars at their best at 3:30am…eek! We also politely declined. Our plans of visiting the observatory were abandoned when we realised during the dinner how tired we were.  

Our last dinner at the lodge was more than memorable sitting outdoors overlooking the plains at sunset. The staff took the children scorpion hunting with a UV torch while waiting for our mains. The most special of all was Elliot’s birthday song from the staff. What a gorgeous sound and so touching. The “normal” Happy Birthday might never be good enough in the future!

The lodge will be briefly closed next year as they undertake renovations to “freshen up” after 20 years in operation. Each room will be getting their own plunge pool and more glass for better views amongst other updates. They also plan on introducing new activities such as “fat” bikes for cycling, as well as improving services and processes to better customer experiences. We have had such a phenomenal and memorable stay, imagine how much better it would be next year! If can afford to visit, it is well worth it!

Jonah excited to have a go

The hoon

How our dirty clothes returned

Sunset dinner

Scorpion hunting!