FLIGHT OF THE PHOENIX: Tracking Cheetahs

In the early morning (530am! Zzzz…) we set off on another game drive – this time searching for Cheetah. Namibia hosts about 30% of the world's declining population of cheetahs. The cheetahs are now extinct in more than half the countries they were once found in. Again, Kavamba utilised his trusty handheld antenna to begin our high tech, wildnerness version of hide and seek. There were only 4 collared cheetahs on the 20 odd thousand hectare reserve due to the murder of one by a leopard on Boxing Day. As such, we considered ourselves quite lucky to spot two of them (Spitfire and Sniper). They were almost comatose after a big meal of impala. Their sleek, concave contours now more closely resembled the shape of a 41+ week, multigravid, diabetic, quintuplet abdomen. They weren’t running anywhere! In fact, they let us drive right up to them… closer than they normally get on the walking trek. We were in the jeep because Jonah presented too much of a tasty morsel. It was a risk that we were prepared to take, but rules are rules. We also encountered a couple of skittish rhino, a funny bird that changes colour and grows a tail longer than its body in mating season and were eluded by a hyena who wasn’t feeling sociable despite the distance that we had travelled.

Today we returned to Galton House in Windhoek. There was something extra nice about returning here. The staff were so lovely the first time around that it felt like coming home for a short break with friends before heading on. It is a bit like a water hole. Many of the people that we chatted with, or simply exchanged knowing nods with when the kids were acting up, were here for a night of respite after a week or two on the road or about to start on their journey. We have all been spoilt, but we’ve all experienced long gravel roads, flat tyres, random acts of kindness and wonderful scenery, people and food. We all look somewhat wearier, dirtier and happier. We didn’t want to risk taking the freebie bottle of sparkling on the plane so offered it around which prompted much reminiscing.

A quick dip, an odd but tasty meal of Cuban tapas and a glass of sparkling later and we were all ready for bed by 730. The lodges had been catering to European schedules of late, prolonged dinners starting at 730 or 8. We prefer to eat early and quickly… highly uncivilised but who cares? We’re “Strayan”! Added to the late nights were usually early morning game drives which made for short overnight sleeps.

Namibia has now drawn to a close. It was only a glimpse, but it felt like the right amount of time given that this was our first trip to Southern Africa. It was so very different and, in many ways nicer, than South Africa. We were so enchanted by Namibia’s vast open spaces, its incredible contrasting desert scenery as well the warm and friendly locals. We might return one day when the kids leave school and spend more time at one place as a fly in fly out holiday (utilising all the private air strips we saw!). Time will tell.