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Sunday, 8 January 2023

Ski Safari Day 2

The morning ski run was much easier today on fresh snow and being first on the piste with no one else around us. We continued on our way around the Dolomites in a clockwise direction. The promised cold front with accompanying snow eventuated today but not until after lunch which worked well for us as we had done most of the "required" skiing for the day. Luca then took the children for fun runs through narrow canyons and going off piste.

It was important to note that Luca was not only our guide, he also picked excellent lunch stops and made reservations ahead of time (knowing roughly how fast or slow we would be) so we wouldn't have to wait for a table! He also timed it so we would be just slightly ahead of the crowd (both for food and to resume skiing!). It was lovely to see that he had such good relationships with the owners of the mountain rifugios. At every one we visited, we were introduced to the owner and their successor! They were all so warm and welcoming. 

Good morning!

Onto the next mountain! Can you spot Lara? Our rifugio where we spent the night can be seen on the right

Lunch at Baita Paradiso

More than the "simple" meal we expected! Pickled vegetables, speck and roasted polenta courtesy of the chef

Trying a local specialty...you can see the visibility has changed significantly in the background!

Beef fillet flavoured with pine needles and baked with a crust!

Our rifugio for tonight, Rifugio Fuciade, was Luca's favourite. He told us that he had known the owner for a very long time, from when the rifugio was little known but to the die hard mountaineers and hikers. It had slowly been enlarged and modified over the years and has recently become a dining spot locally. People would come just to have a meal there. Rooms here book out quite a fair bit in advance both in winter and summer. Luca gave us a quick tour when we arrived and we were taken aback by how amazing this place was. We could now understand why he loved it. They had what looked like a reference book but was actually their wine list! Two subterranean floors of wine cellar, plus their own cheese and cured meats storage room, a room to church their own butter, a massive professional chef's kitchen, a separate kitchen for pastries and dessert and much more. The staff were all so lovely, excited to practice their English with us and for Lara to practice her Italian with them. Great way to end day 2!

Having a rest while waiting for our "lift". Lara had to "cool down" so had to sit on the snow

um...yeah we're the dumb Australians trying to eat snow

We were supposed to ski off piste to the pick up point which was closer to the rifugio but Luca said the conditions were not appropriate and convinced the owner to pick us up at the bottom of the chairlift!

It was cosy in the front cab

The only way in and out to the rifugio in winter

Rifugio Fuciade, such a modest front...

The chairs with a view

The giant skidoo would pull a sled with chairs - for the day guests. They park their cars in a nearby garage and have to travel by skidoo to get here! Yes even when it is snowing!! And yes the restaurant was FULL that night

Our cosy room 

The loft was a little more spacious this time

Hot tub! 

View from our room

Ready for dinner!

The stairs that led to many many hidden rooms

Oh what a lovely cellar!

Another one!

Oh one more!

Speck and cheese!

But wait...under the newly made cellar dining room there's another whole cellar!

all the furnishings and decor are originals. These are butter presses

Manuela said the food here was excellent. However we did not expect a degustation for dinner. 

Atlantic char with mustard gelato and squid ink coral

Rabbit spaghetti

Deer


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