FLIGHT OF THE PHOENIX: Red Dzao

Our home for tonight Topas Riverside Lodge

A 0630 pick up today for our journey towards Sapa today means a breakfast box instead of the scrumptious sit down breakfast. Boo. The Topas Mountain Express picked us up right on 0630. It was an 8 seater minivan and we picked up another couple (an American on who were not ready!) before driving northbound. Grand plans for the 5 hours on the bus fell by the wayside in lieu of a nap as the seat on the mini van was quite comfortable! The major highway was decent but for some reason there was still a lot of up and down bumpiness, so much so that my fitbit registered 7000 steps. When we neared our destination, there was a minibus transfer to cover the last 30 minutes on tiny windy roads to take us to Nam Cang Village, from there it was a short 300m walk to the Topas Riverside Lodge.

Breakfast box courtesy of the hotel

Vietnamese coffee to go

Bus was comfy!

Complete with USB charging port and wifi

On road snack provided by Topas

Roadside rest stop Vietnamese style

There were boxes of sandals lined up and I couldn't work out what they were for

Our driver simply said, "For the people on the bus"

I walked up and just managed to catch one passenger coming down on to the step barefeet and putting on a pair of the sandals! Why?!? Who knows...

Scenery started to change

The second minibus going up this road

So pretty though

Upon arrival at Nam Cang, our suitcases made it by motorbike to the resort

We are on a 2 night package with Topas organised via Go-Indochine. The first night would be at their smaller, sister lodge, Topas Riverside Lodge in the Sapa Valley. The second night would see us at the flagship Topas Ecolodge, high on the mountain, and popular on instagram. Both are within Hoang Lien National Park. Our package included some guided walks and certain meals, with other activities at an extra charge. The lodge has an interesting story (https://topasriversidelodge.com/our-story) and the description and the video of the activities are true on their website , except their videography and photography are certainly better than mine! They managed to cut out the "ugly" parts of the village, the plastics and concrete of the modern creep that I suppose would not look good on the internet. Nonetheless, there was no certainly no mass tourism here. You are literally within the village life with people walking around and past the lodge. We did see Madame Phu out and about, visited her home, met her daughter in-law and granddaughter, and she was the one who prepared our herbal baths for us, and helped Opa out of the bath because he was too hot!

We were met by our guide for the next 2 days, Sung, at the second mini bus. She is a Hmong and her English was self taught. Truly impressive. It was wonderful to get an insight into her life, her village, her concerns about her culture dying out because her English was SO good! She works as guide but describes herself as still mainly farmer, as she to go to the rice fields to work. She was married at 14, and had her first child at 15, as was common back then.

She walked us to the lodge, helped us check in and explained the order for the day. Lunch was provided, and then she would walk with us and meet with the local families of the Red Dzao within Nam Cang. The Red Dzao are the second largest ethnic minority group within Vietnam. Sung went through their customs and we saw some of the skills that they were good at. This was where there was great contrast from the videos on the official website to the reality. Most wore a very pared down version of the the traditional dress, the conditions were not as "traditional" as the videos made them look. It was in a large space, although the building largely made of wood, there was many modern aspects. The village was one of the ones better off from a financial security point of view, from location, ownership of land as well as business ventures. Parts of the village still looked ugly though, with random plastic pits, bottles, concrete, piping. I suppose the selfish tourist in me wanted the "authentic" look. Dumb tourist...The people, however, were fabulous to meet! There were happy to chat about their life, via translation from Sung. So many fascinating stories! Overall, it was enjoyable despite the "ugliness" and the heat.

The rest of the day was pretty chill. We enjoyed the riverside location, had our herbal baths, and ate a lovely dinner (both the latter at an extra charge).

Sung, our guide. She was not wearing her traditional black, as it is too hot.

The lodge, originally built by one of the families, and later bought and modernised by a Danish

This bridge is decidedly NOT modern. Watch your footing and the mean swing!

Welcomed with a cool towel and yummy cinnamon tea

Our very comfortable rooms

We later found out that right outside that window is obviously a path that the villagers use! so the blinds with down promptly

Modern bathroom

In room snack

The very nice and airy dining and reception area

Lunch was simple but tasty

Pork balls on the left, tofu on the right

Enjoying the river

Time for a tour. Sung explaining how bamboo paper is made

Madame Phu's daughter in law showing us how it is done. She is only wearing the red dzao headwear and only a simple one

This is a very course 4 layer paper used for ceremonies only

A very fine 3 layer paper used for writing. The writing was by Mr Phu

Sung finding a local banana for us to try

Opa likes it

The silversmith

Learnt from his grandfather

They use old french silver coins

An example of a red dzao "button"

The older generation are more likely to wear the traditional clothes. Her eyebrows are shaved off as per tradition and she is showing off her fine needlework