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Monday, 2 March 2026

Travel to Nyungwe

One&Only Nyungwe House. Like a Dilmah ad

Travel day.

We had to get from the far east of Akagera National Park to the deep southwest of the country. On a map, Rwanda doesn’t look especially large, roughly the size of Tasmania. In reality? It is a relentless series of hills. They don’t call it the Land of a Thousand Hills for nothing. For those afflicted by motion sickness, definitely take precautions.

We departed at 7:00am for what would become The Long Drive.

The first hour was simply retracing our steps to the park entrance to meet Jeff and his Land Cruiser. Then we settled in for the haul westward. Bar a short toilet stop and a lunch break, we drove. And drove. And drove.

The scenery shifted gradually, from savannah plains to increasingly lush, folded green hills. Roads remained impressively smooth for long stretches, winding through small villages where life unfolded right beside the tarmac: roadside fruit stalls, women balancing impossibly large bundles on their heads, schoolchildren in uniform walking home in clusters.

Eight and a half hours later, at 5:30pm, we finally arrived at our destination...our home for the next two nights: One&Only Nyungwe House, perched on the edge of Nyungwe National Park.

If Akagera was open plains and big skies, Nyungwe is something else entirely, one of Africa’s oldest rainforests, dense, misty and layered in green. Most importantly to us, home to chimpanzees.

We stepped out of the car slightly stiff, mildly travel-weary… and very ready for whatever the forest had in store. Let's hope our bodies agree with us tomorrow!

Petrol station where we had a quick loo stop

Very western place to stop for lunch. But it was clean, nice and quiet.

The gorgeous tea plantations that act like a "buffer" around the National Park

We were greeted with a lovely ginger, lemongrass tea

And a 15 min massage!

The snack table that looked too pretty to touch

So tempted...

They have gear to lend guests should they need any

Elegant yet cozy public spaces

We found out we were two of only 4 guests! Property has 22 rooms

They made sure to let us know during the orientation of what was included in our stay (laundry, shoe cleaning!) and that they were here to make our stay comfortable

Outside area, covered from the recent downpour. It is rainy season...

The caps were a gift, the bags were for loan in case we needed it for hikes

Our very spacious and once again well equipped room

Very large bathroom

Walking sticks

Welcome wine

More gifts! Water bottles

Complimentary minibar

Our balcony overlooked the National Park. We were warned to keep doors closed when we were not in the room so the monkeys don't enter...

Dinner time! 5 course meal

All alcoholic drinks included! Cheers!

Never knew beetroot could be so tasty

Perch

A nice touch at turn down 


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