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| Photo courtesy of Alison! And yes it really did look like this! |
We survived.
Day three, and the final 14 kilometres to complete our traverse of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park. We set out across the wide, sunlit expanse of the Sennes Plateau on trail 19, the path meandering toward Rifugio Biella, perched above the valley. We stopped there for elevenses — chocolate cake and espresso macchiatos — which felt entirely justified.
From Biella, we climbed over the ridge before beginning the long descent toward Lago di Braies, the legendary glacial lake that also marks the official starting point of the Alta Via 1. The final seven kilometres were a continuous downhill, which sounds appealing in theory. In practice, it was at times brutal. We passed many hikers heading up with full packs on their backs, which made us feel marginally better about our direction of travel.
By the time we reached the lake, our legs had very little left to say. There was the option to hire a traditional wooden rowboat — Lago di Braies is famous for them — but we collectively decided that taxing the upper body on top of everything else was not a decision we'd look back on fondly.
Our pre-arranged transfer arrived at 4:15pm to collect us, timing that was not accidental — the road to Lago di Braies is closed to private vehicles daily from 9am to 4pm, so transfers need to be planned accordingly. Worth knowing if you're doing this yourself: as the road reopens at 4pm, there can be a queue of cars waiting to enter, which may delay your driver slightly.
We were delivered to Hotel Laurin's in Dobbiaco, and just like that, the hut-to-hut hike was done. Forty-four kilometres (yeah more than the official total because we did wander off course at times...) across three days, through one of the most spectacular landscapes we've ever walked through.
Not bad at all.
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| Um...which way do we go? |
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| This way |
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| Lots of little ridges to go over... |
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| ...which meant going up |
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| ...just to go back down. You can just see Rifugio Biella in the distance |
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| More marmots! |
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| We have to climb over this to begin our descent down to Lago di Braies |
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| But first...chocolate cake! |
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| Made it to the top of the ridge where it was a fresh 9-10 degrees. Rifugio Biella down the bottom |
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| The beginning of our descent. It was only downhill from here on...for 7km |
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| Why hello tiny snake |
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| I don't think I've posted this flower yet |
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| It was very challenging at times |
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| Our first glimpse of the lake |
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| We did it!! |
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| Time to fill the stomach and empty the bladder |
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| The lake from the other side. We came down from all the way up there |
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| A very late lunch |
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| Waiting for Christian, our taxi driver |
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| Our room at Hotel Laurin's |
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| Clean modern bathroom |
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| Very generous balcony |
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| Hotel has sauna & steam room |
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| Relaxation beds |
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| Lovely table for dinner |
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| Dinner is 6 course and you can choose each dish |
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| "Bacon" antipasti |
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| Carrot soup with curry crouton |
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| Salmon |
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| I can't even remember what dessert was |
