Sampans & Sweets

 

Smaller channels at Tan Phong

Our exploration of the Mekong continued this morning. We were treated to a sampan ride through the smaller channels on Tan Phong island. We had delicious fried banana. We went to watch local folk song. This was a little subpar to be honest. I didn't like that they were not upfront about the costs of the drinks, and shoving the tip jar in your face. I'd much prefer to just pay a fee to enter to watch should I choose to. After this, we went to a shop to watch how they make pop-rice, coconut candy and rice paper.

Our Mekong Delta adventure continued this morning with a serene sampan ride through the narrower, more intimate channels of Tan Phong Island. It would have been utterly charming, alas it was distressing to see plastic litter. We were treated to some utterly delicious fried banana – a childhood favourite of mine!

Next up was a local folk song performance. I'm all for cultural immersion, but this particular rendition was a little subpar. My main gripe, however, wasn't the singing, but the rather unsubtle approach to sales. I did not appreciate the lack of upfront pricing for drinks and the aggressively presented tip jar. Call me old-fashioned, but I prefer to choose to support local artists, ideally through a clear entry fee, rather than feeling obligated to subsidise their questionable performance and beverage pricing.

Peaceful breakfast riverside

Cake similar to one found in Indonesia!

My parents would be so happy to eat these

Our skillful sampan rower

Deep fried banana

Riverside supermarket

Durians!

Traditional folk songs

The fresh fruits apparently was free

but not the drinks! I had to beg and borrow for cash...

After that little detour, we moved on to a more enlightening experience: a visit to a local workshop showcasing the production of pop-rice, coconut candy, and rice paper. It's truly fascinating to see how these staples of Vietnamese cuisine are made – a real insight into simple yet clever tools utilised to make these snacks. And yes, I did stock up on coconut candy. It's a sticky, sweet addiction, and I regret nothing.

And just like that, it was back to Saigon. The city greeted us with monsoonal showers and its usual glorious chaos. A whirlwind of last-minute shopping at the Ben Thanh Market (because one needed to buy souvenirs and clothes and as a result an additional suitcase) before my flight back to Sydney in the morning.

It's been an incredible 11 days here in Vietnam. I've been very fortunate to share this experience with a truly fun and friendly group of fellow travelers, making new friends and connections along the way. But perhaps most importantly, this trip has given me invaluable insight into the sheer dedication of the team behind the scenes – the people who tirelessly arrange the local guides, vet the hotels, and curate these fantastic tours. It's one thing to see the polished end product; it's another to appreciate the logistics involved that makes it all happen.

So, for now, it's a reluctant tạm biệt to Vietnam. You've been chaotic, charming, and a constant source of adventure. I'll be back, perhaps with a bigger suitcase and a few more Vietnamese Dong!

As usual, I used Airalo for my e-sim. Coverage in Vietnam is very good, with the exception of occasional patchy areas near Pu Luong and Ha Long Bay. If you purchase an e-sim use my referral code BELIND6864. You get AUD5 credit and I Get AUD5 credit. Win win!

They use rice husks as fuel, and "pop" the rice with fine sand

The sand is sifted through to be re-used

The popped rice then mixed with sugars and whatever flavouring you want

Moulded

Rolled

Sliced

Then packaged for sale

Rice paper production. Different to the one we made yesterday

This is then dried on top of a weaved surface to give that characteristic pattern that we see

Lunch was at a restaurant attached to an historic house

Traditional roofing

Interior looked almost Chinese

Down to the mother of pearl decorations

Oh dear we had to cook our own banh xeo

She kept telling me "wrong" 😅

The final product

Farewell dinner venue. Food was good

Seabass with pickled shallots. So tasty

The Mighty Mekong

Mekong River

Today, we continued our pilgrimage south, venturing into the fabled Mekong Delta – Vietnam's rice bowl. And let me tell you, when they say "rice bowl," they're not messing around. While the rice paddies up north and in central Vietnam were charmingly modest, here, the fields stretch to the horizon like a green, carb-laden ocean. With three harvests a year, this place single-handedly supplies over half of Vietnam's rice and a staggering 90% of its rice exports. It's also an important producer for fruits and seafood, and the particular corner we were exploring specialises in... wait for it... jackfruit and durian! My apologies in advance to anyone whose olfactory senses are currently on high alert.

Before diving into the local delights, it's worth noting a few facts about the mighty Mekong itself. This behemoth of a river, often called the "Mother of Waters," stretches approximately 4,900km from its origins on the Tibetan Plateau. It then embarks on an epic journey, flowing through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, and Cambodia, before finally gracing Vietnam with its presence and splitting into a rich, life-giving delta then emptying into the South China Sea. So, while we're experiencing just a small slice of the way of life on this river.

Our trusty bus ferried us to Cai Be, where we then boarded a boat destined for Mekong Lodge. Perched right on the riverbank, the lodge offered a prime viewing spot for the "Mekong Highway" – a constant parade of boats going about their business. The resort itself was basic but surprisingly comfortable. A word to the wise: whilst the room itself has air-conditioning, the bathrooms and toilets are outdoors. Spacious, yes, but definitely al fresco. 

Something different that none of the other hotels in Vietnam had for breakfast - grass jelly and coconut jelly with basil seeds!

Cai Be "Harbour" - basic!

The actual dock itself outside

The Mekong - keep going and you'll reach Cambodia

Cargo traffic. This one had rice in it

Mekong Lodge

Everything was so green!

The reception area

Welcome drink. I still haven't figured out what it was

Jackfruit EVERYWHERE

My room is on the left

Inside

Window on the side of the room

The bathroom!

Toilet

Shower

The hotel has a pool

After a yummy lunch, we embarked on yet another cycling tour. If you detect a slight hesitation in my tone, it is because, despite my adventurous spirit, I am fundamentally NOT a cyclist. And my derriere, after numerous "scenic" rides, is beginning to stage a protest.

Conveniently, the bikes were lined up outside our rooms, complete with helmet, bottle of water and poncho all at the ready. So, off we wobbled to explore Tan Phong Island. This island, now handily linked to the mainland by a bridge, wasn't always so accessible. Our guide showed us how the resourceful locals transform humble water hyacinth into hats and crafts, and how banana leaves are intricately woven into hammocks. We also got a peek at the production of rice paper in the south.

Banana flower salad

Deep fried fish

You guessed it...jackfruit for dessert!

Bicycle sigh...at least mine had a lucky number on it

All thought of

Cycling on Tan Phong Island

Smaller waterways on the island

Water hyacinth handicrafts. Yes she was using her foot

Small souvenir made for us on the spot

Another personal favourite - longans! 

They use everything. Banana leaves not just for food but also for hammocks

Rice paper in the south

Had a go at making one

The evening activity came in the form of a cooking demonstration. We learned the secrets behind spring rolls, wontons, and sweet and sour pork. And while I appreciate the effort, just quietly... I still think the Chinese version of sweet and sour pork has the edge. Don't tell anyone I said that!

Cooking demonstration

We had a go at making wontons and spring rolls

Yeah pretty ugly

But once deep fried, they're yummy in the tummy!

Spring roll

We were instructed to make them finger sized

The end product