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| Col dei Bos Via Ferrata. Fear of heights is not ideal for this activity |
Our last day in the Dolomites, and we saved the best for last.
We met Tobias at 8am — our local, UIAGM/IFMGA-certified mountain guide — who would take us on what turned out to be an unforgettable via ferrata experience, in more ways than one.
The route was the Via Ferrata Col dei Bos, a climb set in a spectacular World War I landscape above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Tobias introduced it with a reassuring note: the hardest section comes first, and it gets easier from there. He was not joking about the first part. There was a moment on that opening climb where I was fairly certain Richard and Ali would be reconsidering the friendship. When we were able to stop and actually look around, though, the views over the Tofane and surrounding peaks were extraordinary — the kind that make the whole ordeal feel worthwhile, if only in retrospect.
Historic tunnels and wartime remains punctuate the route throughout, adding a sobering cultural dimension to what is already a physically and mentally demanding experience.
From the summit, we continued up — and I appreciate that "continued up" after a via ferrata deserves acknowledgement — to Rifugio Lagazuoi for lunch at 2,752 metres. The ascent was, to reach for a word I have possibly overused this week, brutal. The reward was sweeping panoramic views and a late but very good lunch.
The descent was through the Lagazuoi WWI tunnels themselves — a remarkable way to come down, carved into the mountain during the war and still largely intact. It was slippery with large uneven steps winding through the mountain itself. Once we reached open flat ground, Tobias, apparently reading the room, took one look at us and ran back to the car to collect us rather than making us walk to it. A small mercy, and genuinely appreciated.
What a way to finish. The Dolomites demanded a lot from all of us this week — in different ways, on different days — but delivered in equal measure. Good company, genuine physical challenge, and some of the most stunning scenery I've encountered anywhere. And a comfortable bed at the end of each day, which should never be underestimated. It is a place that is dear to my heart and I look forward to returning.
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| Field hospital |
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| This was the start...straight up! |
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| Very relieved to make it up the first section |
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| Mal was not comfortable as we were still perched on a thin ledge which is not obvious in this photo |
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| And we keep going up! |
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| Thank you Tobias for taking some great shots! |
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| Many sections were vertical |
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| We started to relax after a while |
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| as we got more comfortable and passed the most difficult sections |
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| but the day was not over... |
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| Continueing on towards Rifugio Lagazuoi |
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| An example of many of the "holes". This was a sleeping room for the general soldiers |
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| See the tiny hut at the very top? That was our destination |
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| There was still snow at the top |
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| We made it! |
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| Some hot chocolate to warm the fingers |
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| And deer goulash to warm the stomach |
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| Thank you Richard for stitching this image together. The view and the information board labelling each peak |
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| Recreated trenches at the top of the mountain |
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| We climb into the tunnel to begin our descent |
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| Trap doors to shoot at enemies |
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| Many little "exits" to view points either at enemy supply line or to other view points of allies |
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| The steps were not easy |
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| We did make it out |
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| but there was more descending to be done. 19 switchbacks to be exact |
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| Thank you Tobias! |
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| Probably my last Hugo! |
