Via Ferrata Col dei Bos and WW1 Tunnel

Col dei Bos Via Ferrata. Fear of heights is not ideal for this activity

Our last day in the Dolomites, and we saved the best for last.

We met Tobias at 8am — our local, UIAGM/IFMGA-certified mountain guide — who would take us on what turned out to be an unforgettable via ferrata experience, in more ways than one.

The route was the Via Ferrata Col dei Bos, a climb set in a spectacular World War I landscape above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Tobias introduced it with a reassuring note: the hardest section comes first, and it gets easier from there. He was not joking about the first part. There was a moment on that opening climb where I was fairly certain Richard and Ali would be reconsidering the friendship. When we were able to stop and actually look around, though, the views over the Tofane and surrounding peaks were extraordinary — the kind that make the whole ordeal feel worthwhile, if only in retrospect.

Historic tunnels and wartime remains punctuate the route throughout, adding a sobering cultural dimension to what is already a physically and mentally demanding experience.

From the summit, we continued up — and I appreciate that "continued up" after a via ferrata deserves acknowledgement — to Rifugio Lagazuoi for lunch at 2,752 metres. The ascent was, to reach for a word I have possibly overused this week, brutal. The reward was sweeping panoramic views and a late but very good lunch.

The descent was through the Lagazuoi WWI tunnels themselves — a remarkable way to come down, carved into the mountain during the war and still largely intact. It was slippery with large uneven steps winding through the mountain itself. Once we reached open flat ground, Tobias, apparently reading the room, took one look at us and ran back to the car to collect us rather than making us walk to it. A small mercy, and genuinely appreciated.

What a way to finish. The Dolomites demanded a lot from all of us this week — in different ways, on different days — but delivered in equal measure. Good company, genuine physical challenge, and some of the most stunning scenery I've encountered anywhere. And a comfortable bed at the end of each day, which should never be underestimated. It is a place that is dear to my heart and I look forward to returning.

Field hospital

This was the start...straight up!

Very relieved to make it up the first section

Mal was not comfortable as we were still perched on a thin ledge which is not obvious in this photo

And we keep going up!

Thank you Tobias for taking some great shots!

Many sections were vertical

We started to relax after a while

as we got more comfortable and passed the most difficult sections

but the day was not over...

Continueing on towards Rifugio Lagazuoi

An example of many of the "holes". This was a sleeping room for the general soldiers

See the tiny hut at the very top? That was our destination

There was still snow at the top

We made it!

Some hot chocolate to warm the fingers

And deer goulash to warm the stomach

Thank you Richard for stitching this image together. The view and the information board labelling each peak

Recreated trenches at the top of the mountain

We climb into the tunnel to begin our descent

Trap doors to shoot at enemies

Many little "exits" to view points either at enemy supply line or to other view points of allies

The steps were not easy

We did make it out

but there was more descending to be done. 19 switchbacks to be exact

Thank you Tobias!

Probably my last Hugo!

Hut to Hut Hike - Sennes Plateau & Lago di Braies

Photo courtesy of Alison! And yes it really did look like this!

We survived.

Day three, and the final 14 kilometres to complete our traverse of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park. We set out across the wide, sunlit expanse of the Sennes Plateau on trail 19, the path meandering toward Rifugio Biella, perched above the valley. We stopped there for elevenses — chocolate cake and espresso macchiatos — which felt entirely justified.

From Biella, we climbed over the ridge before beginning the long descent toward Lago di Braies, the legendary glacial lake that also marks the official starting point of the Alta Via 1. The final seven kilometres were a continuous downhill, which sounds appealing in theory. In practice, it was at times brutal. We passed many hikers heading up with full packs on their backs, which made us feel marginally better about our direction of travel.

By the time we reached the lake, our legs had very little left to say. There was the option to hire a traditional wooden rowboat — Lago di Braies is famous for them — but we collectively decided that taxing the upper body on top of everything else was not a decision we'd look back on fondly.

Our pre-arranged transfer arrived at 4:15pm to collect us, timing that was not accidental — the road to Lago di Braies is closed to private vehicles daily from 9am to 4pm, so transfers need to be planned accordingly. Worth knowing if you're doing this yourself: as the road reopens at 4pm, there can be a queue of cars waiting to enter, which may delay your driver slightly.

We were delivered to Hotel Laurin's in Dobbiaco, and just like that, the hut-to-hut hike was done. Forty-four kilometres (yeah more than the official total because we did wander off course at times...) across three days, through one of the most spectacular landscapes we've ever walked through.

Not bad at all.

Um...which way do we go?

This way

Lots of little ridges to go over...

...which meant going up

...just to go back down. You can just see Rifugio Biella in the distance

More marmots!

We have to climb over this to begin our descent down to Lago di Braies

But first...chocolate cake!

Made it to the top of the ridge where it was a fresh 9-10 degrees. Rifugio Biella down the bottom

The beginning of our descent. It was only downhill from here on...for 7km

Why hello tiny snake

I don't think I've posted this flower yet

It was very challenging at times

Our first glimpse of the lake

We did it!!

Time to fill the stomach and empty the bladder

The lake from the other side. We came down from all the way up there

A very late lunch

Waiting for Christian, our taxi driver

Our room at Hotel Laurin's

Clean modern bathroom

Very generous balcony

Hotel has sauna & steam room

Relaxation beds

Lovely table for dinner

Dinner is 6 course and you can choose each dish 

"Bacon" antipasti

Carrot soup with curry crouton

Salmon

I can't even remember what dessert was