Chimps & Cardio

Chimpanzee. He refused to turn to face me!

Another day, another 5am start. Today that sacrifice was made to see the chimpanzees.

We borrowed gaiters from the lodge and had an actual human assigned to help us put them on, fill our water bottles, and check we were adequately equipped for rainforest battle. Our pre-ordered breakfast box was waiting. Someone even handed me a café latte to go. Please let me take one of you home...

It took a while to drive deep into Nyungwe National Park to reach the trekking start point. Along the way we collected our guide, met the rest of the group, and received a briefing. We were also offered the option of hiring porters — to carry backpacks or physically haul us up muddy inclines if required. Pride said no, as did the BO wafting towards me from some of the porters...

By the time we began, it was almost 7:30am. The trek was hard yakka but we survived...just.

Nyungwe rainforest is dense, steep, humid and not remotely interested in your step count goals. The trackers had already located the chimpanzees and were in radio contact with the guide, but that didn’t mean the chimpanzees were waiting politely for us. We had to keep moving. And at a decent pace.

We could hear them long before we saw them — loud, piercing calls echoing through the canopy. When we finally caught up, we found a subgroup of 14 chimps, part of a wider community of about 50.

They do not pose. They swing. They climb. They disappear. They reappear. They force you to scramble after them on slippery slopes. At one point, the trackers were literally slashing through vegetation with machetes to clear a path as well as to create footholds in the mud.

I was drenched in sweat. Completely. Battle ants declared war. Their bites hurt. My cardiovascular system was screaming for mercy. Mal’s hips were quietly negotiating their resignation. But we saw them. Properly. Up close. And we were told not all groups are that lucky.

We finished at 10:30am victorious but exhausted.

Only one chimp trekking group runs per day here, always in the morning, with a maximum of eight guests. It’s highly sought after in peak season. The trackers follow the chimps all day until they nest for the night. They wake up before the chimps and continue to track them so they can then radio their final coordinates to let the guides know where to begin the next morning. It’s part wildlife science, part strategic pursuit.

Dr Livingstone I presume?

Gaitors on loan. Not all gaitors were made equal as we found out on the trek.

Our breakfast to go! In there I had yoghurt, granola, fruit and donuts!

They had walking sticks that we could borrow and yes do borrow them

Still smiling at the beginning.

That was how steep the terrain was

Work smarter not harder. At one point I sent my phone with the tracker at the front to get some footage

Um don't ask old ladies to take photos. She was supposed to take one of us and the chimp but she included someone's butt instead

A bit Planet of the Apes-ish. Caesar

Still standing...somehow

By the time we returned to One&Only Nyungwe House, the rain had started and we had nothing left to prove. We made the executive decision to abandon the canopy walk and lean into recovery mode instead. Hot bath. Outdoor lunch with a view of the soothing greens of the tea plantation. An unexpectedly fascinating tea experience. Then a nap of the deeply earned variety. Dinner was delightful as always.

Tomorrow we leave this rainforest and head to another national park. Rwanda really does not believe in half measures.

Ah....something thoughtful

Very much needed

Lunch time!

Every meal we say we'll skip they bread...but they are so yummy

The bartender's own concoction

Mushroom arancinis. Mini bursts of flavour

Amazing squid pasta

Tea experience!

This is the leaf you want to pick

When you have tea tasting, these are the palate cleansers apparently

3 different grades of premium tea

A timer is required for proper steeping

I've already forgotten what the letters stand for

Tasting time

Finally sun!

The pool. Each seat also comes with a hat, sunscreen and moisturiser

Bar is there, Mal is satisfied

My hiking boots are now cleaner than when they were when they got here pre-hike

Cake. But disappointed that there was no joyful singing. Perhaps that didn't fit with the elegant feel

Dinner

One last surprise