Baby Steps & Big Cats

M9 one of the geriatric lions in the park. But look at that hair...

A good night’s sleep is precious. I was in bed by 10:30pm. Woke once at 3am, took some melatonin, and went straight back to sleep until 6:08am. I’m calling that a win.

I ventured into the very basic gym in an attempt to resurrect my fitness. A bout of the flu recently knocked me around, with lingering asthma and fatigue slower to recover than I’d like. But baby steps. All for the chimps and gorillas.

Mal, meanwhile, is nursing a few injuries including a flexor tendon strain, a hip capsule tear and a maximus gluteus tear courtesy of too much pickleball, and some post-hernia repair grumbles. We are quite the pair. At least we now have legitimate reasons to be placed in the “poor fitness” gorilla trekking group.

I woke to a flood of lovely birthday messages, which made poolside breakfast feel even more celebratory. Simple, well done, and efficiently serviced.

A tiny gym

Pool

African tea. Extra gingery!

Jeff picked us up promptly at 8:00am and we began the 2.5-hour drive towards Akagera National Park.

When people say Rwanda is clean, they are not exaggerating. You don’t really understand it until you’re here. We have not seen a single piece of rubbish on the roads. No plastic bags. No stray bottles. No food wrappers. Nothing.

Today happened to be Umuganda, the nationwide mandatory community clean-up held on the last Saturday of each month from 8–11am. We saw entire communities out sweeping, clearing drains, trimming verges. We also saw a few citizens appearing to explain themselves to police as to why they weren’t participating. As a result, the roads were blissfully quiet.

The main highways were in excellent condition. Then, after 2.5 smooth hours, we hit dirt. The final hour into Akagera was bumpy, muddy and gloriously wild, with Jeff expertly navigating potholes and puddles.

Akagera, which borders Tanzania, was once heavily depleted of wildlife after the 1994 genocide when displaced communities settled inside the park. Since 2010, a partnership between the Rwanda Development Board and African Parks has transformed it. Lions were reintroduced in 2015. Black rhinos followed in 2017. It is now a full Big Five park again — a conservation success story in real time.

Jeff and his trusty land cruiser. Our vehicle for our time in Rwanda

At the park entrance, we met Assiat, our guide for our stay at Wilderness Magashi Camp. Magashi sits within the only private concession in the park and is one of two Wilderness properties there. Its newer sibling, Magashi Peninsula, opened in October 2025 as the more “premium” offering. Though frankly, we were feeling pretty premium already.

Assiat drove us the final hour to camp, armed with a neatly packed snack box and cold water. On arrival, we were welcomed with joyous singing from the staff, as well as possibly the best birthday rendition imaginable that one could wish for. Oh and a cake too!

Rachel oriented us to the property. Just eight tented suites. Only two currently occupied. Four guests in total. We like these odds.

Lunch overlooked Lake Rwanyakizinga, one of Akagera’s largest lakes and home to hippos, crocodiles and extraordinary birdlife. By the time we finished at 2pm, we were deeply relaxed.

Free time until 3:30pm was taken up by an alcohol induced nap (the G&T and amarula were calling my name) - at which point our stomachs were assaulted again with afternoon tea, an excellent chocolate cake, and a proper iced latte any Australian would approve of.

Change of jeep

On the way to Magashi camp

I love the snack packs

Dried pineapples. All made at the resort

It was too bumpy to take photos of each one. There was popcorn, a granola type bar, and tastiest vegetable wrap I've ever tasted

Magashi Camp sits in the private concession

Such a joyful welcome and in harmony!

Cake was delicious

Lunch time! Meals are 3 course

Property on the edge of Lake Rwanyakizinga. Pronounce that one!

Fire pit

Property is small with only 8 tents. This is the main building

The lounge

The all important machine!

A most delicious fish cake

Excellent macchiato

Our "tent"

Very comfortable inside and equipped with everything that you might need

View from our patio

Very large bathroom

The drinks station

Can't have coffee and tea without cookies naturally

Minibar is stocked and included

Yoga mat incase one was inspired to yoga away on the patio

Seriously amazing chocolate cake

The savoury afternoon tea option

Then it was time for our first safari.

We were extraordinarily lucky. We sighted lions and the elusive leopard on our very first drive. Lions were completely wiped out of Akagera by 2000 after poisoning from human-wildlife conflict when they strayed into farmland. Eight were reintroduced in 2015; today there are around 60–70 in the park. A perimeter electric fence and ongoing community engagement have helped protect both livestock and predators.

After the requisite sundowner overlooking the plains, we returned to camp to warm towels and a “vodka breeze.” Welcome towels, hot or cold, should simply be standard everywhere. It is such a small thing and yet feels wildly luxurious.

Dinner was again excellent, served poolside under a darkening sky, with the occasional elephant or hippo wandering nearby and fireflies flickering in the grass.

 probably should have taken more photos. But honestly? It was nice not needing to document every five seconds. We were relaxed. It was nice to be present and just enjoy the moment.

For now, it’s bedtime, in preparation for a 6am breakfast and whatever Africa decides to show us next.

Things are getting serious. The khakis and the bush hat are on

Today's game drive was around the Magashi Peninsula

Why hello impala! This is a male. 

These 2 males were part of the first litter from the re-introduced originals

Topi

Sunset = drinks

Hippos were everywhere, on land and in the water

Parked with a view

This was a quick sundowner

Cheers to an excellent first day!

The bonus sighting on the way home...the elusive leopard

Thank you Mal!

This is M7. Unfortunately M8 is deceased