Showing posts with label Dolomites. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dolomites. Show all posts

Saturday, 4 July 2026

From the Mountain to the Sea

Not a bad view from our dinner table. Piazza San Marco and the Doges Palace

The fab four had one last breakfast together before parting ways.

Our private transfer to Venice dropped Richard and Ali first at the airport for their London flight — Wimbledon awaited — before continuing on to the Venice Passenger Terminal with Mal and me. Our driver deserves a mention: the physical likeness of a grey, chubby Mario, but with the vocal energy of someone entirely German. Loud, affable, and excellent company.

This was an unexpected find in a Italian motorway rest stop. And it cost 35 euros!

Yummy cold coffee

Goodbye mountains! Even the rest stops were scenic

The transfer was comfortable and spacious

We arrived at the cruise terminal at 1:45pm to find it virtually empty. We were whisked aboard Club Med 2 with enough time to catch the tail end of lunch — which closed at 2pm — and just like that, the Dolomites were behind us and the Adriatic was ahead.

Club Med 2 is something of a legend in sailing circles. Launched in 1992, she is one of the world's largest sailing ships — a five-masted computer-controlled staysail schooner stretching 187 metres, carrying around 390 passengers with a crew of 220. We were on a seven-night voyage from Venice through the Croatian coast and into Montenegro, with stops at Cres, Krk, Vis, Dubrovnik, Mljet and Kotor before finishing in Bari. On paper, it sounded rather wonderful.

First impressions, in all honesty, were mixed. The yacht was not quite what the marketing photography had led me to expect. Better described as stylish than luxurious: older, but well-maintained, well-equipped, and decorated in a classy, relaxed French nautical aesthetic. Our cabin was the cheapest available and, to its credit, had genuinely clever and ample storage. First world problems duly noted.

The other adjustment was cultural. After a week of Italian warmth, the atmosphere aboard was markedly French — VERY French — hardly surprising given that approximately 95% of passengers were French-speaking. The staff, although collectively initially came across as aloof, were individually friendly. Some parts of the muster drill, for reasons best known to the organisers, were concluded entirely in French. One young officer, unprompted, translated the relevant parts for us — a small gesture, but a kind one. Meals and activities ran late across the board, which is worth knowing if you're an early riser or an early diner. And there was smokers everywhere...an asthmatic's worst nightmare.

The food, as one might hope from the French, was excellent — very much in the tradition of Club Med's ski resorts. The coffee, however, was terrible. 

For now, we would give it a chance and reserve judgement.

The Club Med 2 yacht

Some of the public spaces

Cozy and comfortable

Lots of space

Never hard to find an empty seat

Pools were small. There were 2 seawater pools


Gym was not bad for a small ship. We never saw anyone else in there

Our small but comfortable cabin

We were on the lowest passenger deck so only port holes for us!

Dresser

Bathroom

Toilet to one side

Shower to the right

Lots of storage

Bracelet which also acts as a key to the cabin

We made it just in time for lunch

Afternoon tea

The iced coffee was terrible...

Goodbye Venice!

Dining room was elegant. This was the Monte Carlo

Butter makes everything better

One of the best fish soups I've had

Veal rump

Strawberry and mascarpone

Sailing out of Venice

Magical with the sun setting


Friday, 3 July 2026

Via Ferrata Col dei Bos and WW1 Tunnel

Col dei Bos Via Ferrata. Fear of heights is not ideal for this activity

Our last day in the Dolomites, and we saved the best for last.

We met Tobias at 8am — our local, UIAGM/IFMGA-certified mountain guide — who would take us on what turned out to be an unforgettable via ferrata experience, in more ways than one.

The route was the Via Ferrata Col dei Bos, a climb set in a spectacular World War I landscape above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Tobias introduced it with a reassuring note: the hardest section comes first, and it gets easier from there. He was not joking about the first part. There was a moment on that opening climb where I was fairly certain Richard and Ali would be reconsidering the friendship. When we were able to stop and actually look around, though, the views over the Tofane and surrounding peaks were extraordinary — the kind that make the whole ordeal feel worthwhile, if only in retrospect.

Historic tunnels and wartime remains punctuate the route throughout, adding a sobering cultural dimension to what is already a physically and mentally demanding experience.

From the summit, we continued up — and I appreciate that "continued up" after a via ferrata deserves acknowledgement — to Rifugio Lagazuoi for lunch at 2,752 metres. The ascent was, to reach for a word I have possibly overused this week, brutal. The reward was sweeping panoramic views and a late but very good lunch.

The descent was through the Lagazuoi WWI tunnels themselves — a remarkable way to come down, carved into the mountain during the war and still largely intact. It was slippery with large uneven steps winding through the mountain itself. Once we reached open flat ground, Tobias, apparently reading the room, took one look at us and ran back to the car to collect us rather than making us walk to it. A small mercy, and genuinely appreciated.

What a way to finish. The Dolomites demanded a lot from all of us this week — in different ways, on different days — but delivered in equal measure. Good company, genuine physical challenge, and some of the most stunning scenery I've encountered anywhere. And a comfortable bed at the end of each day, which should never be underestimated. It is a place that is dear to my heart and I look forward to returning.


Field hospital

This was the start...straight up!

Very relieved to make it up the first section

Mal was not comfortable as we were still perched on a thin ledge which is not obvious in this photo

And we keep going up!

Thank you Tobias for taking some great shots!

Many sections were vertical

We started to relax after a while

as we got more comfortable and passed the most difficult sections


but the day was not over...

Continueing on towards Rifugio Lagazuoi

An example of many of the "holes". This was a sleeping room for the general soldiers

See the tiny hut at the very top? That was our destination

There was still snow at the top

We made it!

Some hot chocolate to warm the fingers

And deer goulash to warm the stomach

Thank you Richard for stitching this image together. The view and the information board labelling each peak

Recreated trenches at the top of the mountain

We climb into the tunnel to begin our descent

Trap doors to shoot at enemies

Many little "exits" to view points either at enemy supply line or to other view points of allies

The steps were not easy

We did make it out

but there was more descending to be done. 19 switchbacks to be exact

Thank you Tobias!

Probably my last Hugo!