Showing posts with label Kathmandu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kathmandu. Show all posts

Tuesday, 17 March 2026

Temples, Transitions & 24 Years

A row of Shiva Lingams. The point of the female part always points north, and the top represents the male

Happy 24th wedding anniversary to us!

We started the day early, heading out at 7am to visit Pashupatinath Temple, one of the complimentary activities offered by Dwarika's Hotel. While the tour itself was included, there is an entrance fee of 1000 rupees for foreign visitors. Fortunately for us, there were no other takers, so it was just us and the guide which made it extremely informative and efficient!

Set along the banks of the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath is one of the most important Hindu temples in the world, dedicated to Lord Shiva and dating back to the 5th century. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, drawing pilgrims from across the Indian subcontinent.

Only Hindus are permitted to enter the main temple complex, so we viewed it from across the river — which, in many ways, offered a broader perspective of the rituals and activity unfolding along the घाटs (ghats). It was a fascinating, and at times confronting, glimpse into a deeply spiritual place.

A large complex or collection of temples, the grounds are also used by locals for exercise

Welcomes but not allowed in

Some old architecture still around

The Bagmati River and the cremation sites on the right

Lots of monkeys here...rhesus macaque if you're interested in the type

Hundreds of smaller temples

View of the larger complex

The main temple, 5th century Pashupatinath Temple

Complex dedicated to Lord Shiva

We returned to the hotel to shower, pack and prepare ourselves mentally for the long journey home.

After checkout, we were transferred to a “day hotel” where we spent the afternoon in a state of quiet limbo, not quite travelling, not quite resting, until it was finally time to head back to the airport for our 11pm flight to Sydney via Singapore. From here, fingers crossed that very little goes wrong. I’m not entirely sure I have any more Plan Bs left in me.

From gorillas in the forests of Rwanda to the stillness of the Himalayas in Nepal, this journey has been one of contrast, challenge and quiet perspective.

Next chapter: Japan in May, hiking the Nakasendo Trail with friends.

Stay tuned.

Monday, 16 March 2026

Kathmandu

Dwarika's Hotel

Another short post today as we flew from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

Fortunately the delay wasn’t too long and the flight eventually departed. We arrived at our overnight hotel, Dwarika's Hotel, just before 2pm.

By the time we had lunch and explored the property, the heavens decided to open properly — lightning, thunder and torrential rain. Other than Mal bravely venturing out for a street haircut, we stayed firmly in the comfort of our room.

On first impression, Dwarika’s has a beautiful old-world charm. The hotel is built around intricately carved wooden architecture inspired by traditional Newari design, and the courtyards and brickwork give it the feel of stepping back into another era.

But while it certainly looks the part, parts of the hotel felt a little dusty and tired, and the service didn’t quite match the aesthetic. Perhaps we had simply been too spoilt along the way.

Tomorrow we begin our journey home. You might be able to tell I’m not feeling particularly inspired today. Perhaps it’s missing the quiet peacefulness of the mountains, or the traffic and pollution of a crowded city. Maybe it’s just a touch of the post-holiday blues.

Most likely, it’s all three.

Finally we could see the mountains in Pokhara. Our guide did name all the peaks...

Modern airport

The plane to take us to Kathmandu. It was a short but bumpy ride!

We could see features out of the plane today!

Old world charm of our room. Massive!

Also a very large bathroom

Tiger and goat! We know this game

Hotel grounds


Monday, 9 March 2026

Hello Himalayas

So relieved to make it to Nepal!

Relief was the overwhelming feeling as we finally landed in Nepal. Our Turkish Airlines plan B had worked and we had made it to Kathmandu. Tribhuvan International Airport was smaller than expected, and we landed into a hazy sky, a murky combination of fog, pollution and smoke from a forest fire somewhere in the south.

Our arrival joy lasted approximately five minutes. We had carefully followed the Smart Traveller link and pre-applied for what we thought was a Nepal tourist visa. We marched straight to the immigration queue that said "Tourists with visa"… only to be told at the front of the line that it was the wrong type of visa because it said “Department of Immigration” instead of “Tribhuvan International Airport”.

We were directed to a cluster of visa-on-arrival kiosks instead. The area was already packed with other passengers doing the same thing. Fortunately there was an option to complete the form on our phones, which saved a little time. Once that was done, we joined another line to actually pay for the visa.

For those interested: a surprising range of currencies including Australian dollars and Singapore dollars are accepted for visa payment. We happily offloaded our spare Singapore cash. Don’t ask me how we had the exact amount.

After that we joined another queue to finally pass through immigration. We were clearly not the only confused passengers because we kept spotting people from our Istanbul flight scattered across the various lines.

Just as things seemed to be moving along, the next wave of stress arrived. I suddenly realised I had left my laptop bag (which was in the nice African print tote we got from Nyungwe!) on the plane. The aircraft was scheduled to depart back to Istanbul in about twenty minutes.

Fortunately we found a helpful staff member at the lost baggage counter who contacted the ground crew to check the aircraft. Meanwhile we were also very aware that we still had a domestic flight to Pokhara to catch.

By the time we cleared immigration, the whole process had taken about an hour and a half. Then came the longest thirty minutes of the day while we waited to see whether the ground staff would retrieve my laptop bag before the aircraft departed. Miraculously, they did. Phew! The bag was returned to us and we now had exactly one hour before our next flight left.

I consider myself a fairly confident traveller, but if I had been any more tired I might have completely decompensated right there in the arrivals hall.

Thankfully we had arranged domestic transfers through Shinta Mani. While we were waiting for news about the laptop bag, they had been messaging us to reassure us that we still had time. When we exited the arrivals area they were waiting for us and immediately transferred us to the domestic terminal.

“Terminal” may be a generous description. It was small, crowded and mildly chaotic. Fortunately our handlers had already checked us in and had staff positioned at various points in the building to guide us along. It was not entirely obvious where to go or what to do, so having that help made a significant difference.

We made it to Nepal!

Eventually we were able to sit down in the domestic departures area and wait for our short flight to Pokhara. We later discovered that Pokhara airport had actually been closed earlier that morning due to poor visibility, which made us even more relieved that our flight was able to depart. When we landed in Pokhara we were once again met at the airport and transferred to our hotel. Unfortunately the haze we had seen in Kathmandu had followed us here. We were told it had been lingering for nearly two weeks.

Pokhara is Nepal’s second-largest city and one of the country’s main tourism hubs. Sitting beside Phewa Lake, it serves as the gateway to the Annapurna region and many of Nepal’s most famous trekking routes, including the Annapurna Circuit and Annapurna Base Camp.

On clear days the city is known for its spectacular mountain backdrop, with views of the Annapurna range and Machapuchare, also known as Fishtail Mountain, along with several of the world’s highest peaks. All we saw was road...and the buildings immediately around us. 

Flights deeper into the Himalayas are notoriously weather-dependent, particularly the short but dramatic flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, which is often cancelled or delayed due to wind and visibility conditions. It was already clear that the next stage of our journey might require a bit of luck.

We had originally planned to walk around the lakeside area, but decided against it to avoid aggravating my asthma. Instead we took the opportunity to visit the cashmere shop just across the road from the hotel. There may have been many purchases made.

Dinner was at the hotel restaurant before we finally called it a night. Tomorrow’s mission: getting to Jomsom and our final destination, Shinta Mani Mustang.

Fingers crossed.

Smiling now that we made it out of the international terminal with ALL our belongings

The domestic terminal

Someone dropping our checked luggage for us

Who knows why we chose to have a matcha bubble tea in Nepal. It tasted weird

Onto a bus to board our flight

Twin prop turbo

The view did not change from take off to landing. Couldn't tell haze apart from clouds

Glad to have survived this flight! It was very bumpy at times

Pokhara airport is modern! However China/India politics prevent it from being used internationally

This was the best view we're gonna get

Rhododendron tea

Hotel is very comfortable for just an overnight stop

Spacious

Himalayan trout for dinner. Only so so at best