Farewell to Mustang

Phewa Lake in Pokhara. Still can't quite see the whole horizon clearly...

Mustang turned out to be far more than we expected.

What we found was a place of vast valleys, ancient monasteries and villages that seem suspended somewhere between Nepal and Tibet. Staying at Shinta Mani Mustang allowed us to experience a small slice of the legendary Annapurna Circuit in a way that felt both adventurous and remarkably comfortable.

The lodge offered the perfect retreat after a day exploring the valley. By mid-afternoon we would return to a beautifully appointed room, unwind in the spa with its sauna, steam room and mineral bath, as well as a customised massage. Evenings unfolded slowly over thoughtful five-course dinners and good conversation, a rather civilised way to experience the Himalayas.

What elevated the stay even further was how thoughtfully the days were organised. Activities were curated and paced to help with altitude acclimatisation, and we had our own local guide accompanying us throughout the week. His stories and insights added depth and context to everything we saw, from ancient monasteries to remote villages tucked into the valley.

More often than not, we found ourselves completely alone in these places, wandering quiet trails, exploring centuries-old villages or standing at viewpoints with nothing but mountains and prayer flags around us. Our experience here has been nothing short of wonderful.

Sadly, today, we had to farewell Mustang and made our way back towards Pokhara. Our original plan had been to fly out of Jomsom, but once again the weather had other ideas and all flights were cancelled. The upside was that we got to sleep in. And perhaps more importantly, we had time for one final proper sit-down breakfast overlooking the stunning snow-capped Nilgiri Mountain. After several days of haze, seeing the mountains clearly felt like a quiet farewell gift from Mustang.

The drive back down the valley was noticeably quicker than the ascent. Leaving Mustang at 9:30am and with only a single toilet stop along the way, we rolled into Hotel Barahi at 13:45.

After checking in, we did the obligatory wander around Phewa Lake, the calm centrepiece of Pokhara. Although the haze had improved slightly, it was only marginal, the mountains that normally frame the lake were still playing hide-and-seek.

We browsed through the many trekking shops selling suspiciously affordable versions of famous outdoor brands and, this time, managed to avoid the gravitational pull of the cashmere stores before calling it a day.

The last gift from Shinta Mani Mustang

Yup we had Japanese food in Pokhara. Large serving size and taste wasn't too bad!