Gorillas In The Mist

Hello my friend

A 6:45am start felt almost civilised after the past few days.

Breakfast was laid out with a view, of course. It was a bit early for a full hot breakfast so I declined, although the Asian in me cried a little at not making full value of the offering.

Because Singita Kwitonda Lodge sits so close to Volcanoes National Park, we only had a short drive to the park headquarters where all gorilla treks begin. We arrived just before 7:00am and joined the other hopeful trekkers waiting to be assigned to groups.

Visitors are organised into groups of eight, each allocated to a specific gorilla family. In theory, they try to match people with similar physical ability, though our guide Geoff admitted that sometimes it feels a little more… flexible than that. He had requested consideration for an “easy” group on our behalf due to Mal’s hip injuries, but there are never guarantees.

We were briefed on the plan for the morning and introduced to the gorilla family we would be visiting: Hirwa.

Mountain gorilla trekking is tightly controlled. There are around 14 (this number seems to change depending on who you listen to!) habituated gorilla families in Volcanoes National Park that tourists can visit, while a few others are reserved exclusively for research. Each family can only be visited once per day by a maximum of eight people, and once you reach them, the viewing time is strictly limited to one hour.

Get your wallets ready because the permits are not cheap either, USD1500 per person. However, the fees play a critical role in conservation efforts, anti-poaching patrols and community programs that help ensure local people benefit from protecting the gorillas rather than competing with them.

The lodge's equipment room

Breakfast with a view

Juices of all varieties you can think of all freshly squeeze

Coffee here is good

They hold a ceremony here to name all the new babies every year

The briefing area at park headquarters. Coffee is free and bathrooms are clean

After the briefing we drove to the actual trekking start point, closer to where the gorilla family had last been located. Waiting there were the porters, along with a pile of complimentary walking sticks that suddenly seemed very appealing.

This time, both Mal and I hired a porter each. Excellent decision and money very well spent.

Singita had packed our backpacks with everything we might possibly need, which made them heavier than what we would normally take. The terrain was also a thick slosh of mud that made every step harder on the legs. Add stinging nettles and fire ants into the equation and I was extremely grateful for Theo, my porter, who not only helped with balance but also warned me about the stinging nettles ahead and brushed ants off my feet and pants.

Unlike our chimpanzee trek in Nyungwe National Park, the guide stopped regularly for breaks which was much appreciated. The climb itself was mostly straight up the face of the mountain rather than the relentless up-and-down we had experienced in the rainforest of Nyungwe.

Just like with the chimpanzees, the gorilla families are monitored by trackers throughout the day. Once we reached the trackers’ location, we left our backpacks and walking sticks behind with the porters, put on our masks, and made the final short climb to reach the gorillas.

And then suddenly… there they were. It felt like stepping into another universe.

The setting alone was breathtaking — dense bamboo forest clinging to the misty slopes of the Virunga mountains. Because it had been raining, the gorillas were relatively settled, huddled together on the forest floor.

The silverback sat a few metres away, enormous and completely unbothered by our presence. Every so often he would glance in our direction, not with curiosity exactly, more with mild acknowledgment, as if to say he was aware of us but not particularly concerned. Around him the rest of the family carried on with their morning. A mother grooming her baby. A juvenile tumbling about with the enthusiasm of a toddler who has just discovered gravity.

It was strangely calm. No drama. No grand entrance. Just us, sitting quietly in the forest while a gorilla family went about their day. It was peaceful. Surreal. Completely absorbing.

You only get one hour with them, but time behaves strangely when you’re sitting a few metres away from wild mountain gorillas.

Eventually our guide gently reminded us that our hour was up. The hike back down turned out to be much harder than the climb up. Mud that was merely inconvenient on the way up became actively treacherous on the way down. By the time we returned to the lodge at around 2:30pm, we were muddy, tired and extremely satisfied.

We even declined lunch. Yes, I know. I know.

The start of the trek. Clean and smiling! And matching 😂 we've got matching caps (from One&Only), matching pants (thanks Singita) and matching brand rainjackets (close enough in colour)!

The walking sticks were ornately carved! It not only looked pretty but the carvings further down helped with grip

The rain had fortunately slowed to a light drizzle

How surreal

Mamas and their babies, cuddling, nursing, napping

Uburanga, alpha silverback of the family

This mama was tired!

Her baby still going

Uburunga means handsome and he knows it

22 in the family group

I'm not sure we needed this much food for a hike

Our feet at the end of the day

Thank you Theo and Agnes!

We love you Jeff! Refreshment table complete with face towel of course post hike

Our afternoon activity was a wine tasting in the lodge’s cellar with Gabriel, the sommelier. He was warm, engaging, and very inclusive — even to the non-drinker. The tasting was a little different from the usual vineyard format because the lodge obviously doesn’t produce its own wines. Instead, the focus was mainly on South African wines, with a few French champagnes thrown in because apparently that’s what the luxury crowd prefers.

Gabriel asked Mal about his wine preferences and curated a selection specifically for him — introducing South African equivalents to styles he already liked while also nudging him toward a few new flavour profiles. It was fascinating to watch and surprisingly enjoyable even for me.

Later in the evening the staff held a small cultural performance with local song and dance. As always, the joy and confidence they perform with is infectious.

Dinner followed, and Gabriel thoughtfully returned with wines he felt would pair well with the meal. He even poured me a dessert wine to accompany my chai ice cream which I drank and enjoyed. Go me!

A very good way to end a very special day.

Edited to add: There was a youtuber in our group - Ella McKendrick! She documented our trek so will add a link when she's made her video!

The small things that make a difference. Revitalising juice ready for us post hike

The book conveniently opened to the gorilla section

A card with information on the gorilla family that we specifically visited

You'd be bored if I posted a photo of every single food item, but this "healthy" bowl was so tasty, and part of our "tapas" lunch

Some of the drinks in the "snack" area

Charcoal macaron

Amazing gin collection!

The wine cellar

Gabriel, the happy and sweet sommelier

Some of these bottles were 2009 vintage, and not able to be purchased, or available by invitation only...

A most joyous cultural show