Cajas National Park

The starting point of our walk, Toreadora Lake

It was time to turn the page on our Andean chapter and begin the next part of our Ecuadorian adventure.

Our final morning in the highlands took us to Cajas National Park, a movie worthy beautiful páramo moorland dotted with over 200 glacial lakes. The park’s name, El Cajas, comes from the Quichua word cassa, meaning “gateway to the snowy mountains”. Quite fitting really, as it felt like a final farewell from the Andes themselves.

Cajas isn’t just stunning, it’s important. It is Cuenca’s main water source, home to countless endemic species and is officially recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its biodiversity.

Our guide picked a “short” 4.7 km walk designed to show off the park’s contrasts: rolling tundra-like grasslands, mirror-clear lagoons, and misty patches of forest where moss crept over every surface. The altitude, however, was less charming. The peak of the trail sits at 3,395m above sea level. Even the gentle inclines left us gasping for air. Still, the reward was worth every laboured breath, a raw landscape that felt both fragile and eternal.

Afterwards, we stopped for a much-needed chocolate refuel and picked up our packed lunches before hitting the road. What followed was a descent for the ages, nearly 4,000 metres downhill as we wound from misty moorlands, past 2 levels of "clouds" to the coastal lowlands. Two hours later, our ears popped, our layers were shed, and the lush humidity of Guayaquil greeted us like a warm slap in the face.

Holiday traffic was predictably chaotic, but we eventually reached our modern home for the night, the Oro Verde Hotel. After seven days of mountain lodges, cobbled streets, and rustic charm, its glossy chain hotel lobby felt almost alien. At check-in, we were handed a stack of cruise paperwork, the prelude to our upcoming Galápagos adventure.

We made a brief, polite appearance at the welcome drinks before admitting defeat to exhaustion. Bags were repacked, cold weather gear retired, and lights out came early. Tomorrow: a new ecosystem, a new chapter, and a whole lot of blue.

Trying something different for breakfast this morning

Goodbye Hotel Itza! We love you but it was a little stuffy in the rooms

Hello llama!

What looked like boring grass held so many interesting plants who have evolved intelligently to survive the altitude

Most flowers have no stems and lay flat on the ground to protect themselves from the wind

Valerian - the root used to help with sleep

Underfoot, sometimes it felt like walking on artificial grass

Strange plants we'd never seen before!

Many many lakes, creeks, and waterfalls

Temperature was also a challenge. It could feel like 20 degrees when the sun was shining. 10-15 when it was not. And down to 5 when the wind blew. Throw in possible rain in there too...

During ascends, we'd often walk 15-20 steps slowly then stop.

Peak of the trail at 3,995m! Sylvia our amazing guide

Then suddenly, it was like we were in a Lords of the Rings movie set

Moss covered rocks

Still breathing...

These pretty things are called Globito "little balloons"

Lake of reeds, native to Peru and Bolivia, like those at Lake Titicaca and brought here by the Incas

One of many rest stops

The only other person we saw on our walk. A local fisherman who was so happy to show us his catch

Trout were a pest so he could take as much as he wanted

Nearing the home stretch

Our reward! Yummy chocolate cake and hot chocolate

The peak of the pass at 4,167m. On the other side, water flowed to the Pacific. On this side, water flowed to the Amazon River

Going all the way down. The first layer of clouds, created by the Andes blocking the rain/humidity from the warm Pacific

You can see the second layer of clouds

Our packed lunch

Up next...

Our room

Crafts & Cuy

As well as its UNESCO-listed historic centre with its cobblestone streets and elegant Spanish colonial architecture, Cuenca is also known for its rich indigenous heritage and craft traditions - from jewelry and textiles to one of its most famous exports, the“Panama” hat. Yes, you read that right. The Panama hat is from Ecuador.

Our mission today was to explore the small artisan villages that surround Cuenca and meet the people who keep these traditions alive.

One of the many beautiful homes. Although this one wasn't Spanish Colonial lol

Breakfast at the hotel was a full-service affair, ie NOT quick! First came the bread basket and spreads, then the fruit course, then the mains. We both went local: Mote Sucio (hominy corn with sausage) for Mal and Mote Pillo (hominy corn scrambled with egg and achiote) for me. Nice for a change but we were both old farts who preferred our bircher muesli + eggs combo!

But before we could immerse ourselves in artisanal wonders, there was pressing business to attend to: laundry. Our guide took us to Gringo Laundry (yes, that’s the real name), where we could wash our clothes “at local prices.” The owner apologised that it would cost USD 4.75, and we did our best not to look too delighted.

Dragonfruit here was surprisingly sweet!

Mote Sucio. Hominy is the giant corn kernals exploded by boiling

Once we dropped off our dirty goods, we set off for San Bartolomé, a village famous for its handcrafted guitars. Before meeting the luthiers, we visited a local entrepreneur who owned the Aussie equivalent of the local corner shop. She kindly offered us horchata, the Ecuadorian herbal tea made from native flowers and plants, usually whatever was available, and invited us into her home for a peek around. It was that kind of warmth that makes Ecuador feel so special. We got to peek at the home collection of guinea pigs as well...

Outside the local church, we stumbled upon the local guinea pig trade. Business looked brisk. The head honcho, who runs the operation (and its WhatsApp group, obviously), was only too happy to explain how it all worked. It was good to see where our guinea pig meal this evening would come from...

In San Bartolomé, we met Homero, the sweetest soft-spoken master craftsman who’s been making guitars for over forty years. He showed us how each piece of wood is chosen, shaped, and polished entirely by hand — no machines, no rush, just patience and pride. Every Thursday, the guitar makers gather in Cuenca to sell their creations, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive. 

Next, we delved into the tangled history of the Panama hat. It actually originated on Ecuador’s coast, woven from the toquilla palm, and exported through Panama in the 19th century hence the misnomer. European demand exploded when the hat was featured at the 1855 World’s Fair in Paris, and again when U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt was photographed wearing one during the Panama Canal construction. The shape may have been refined abroad, but the skill and artistry remain purely Ecuadorian.

There’s a little poetic justice in where we’re staying. Itza Boutique Hotel occupies the restored home of a former Panama hat factory owner, and the new owner’s family descends from one of the original weaving villages. Sweet, stylish revenge indeed.

San Bartolomé. They crackle the skin with the meat raw and cooked the meat afterwards. Very happy to explain and let us take photos

Tiny corner shop. This one was the "modern" building funded by her sons working in America

New house on the right, old on the left

She was happy for us to take a sticky beak at her guinea pig clan

The 3 giant males

They were massive!

The females and their babies

These 2 were pregnant and keeping warm

Baby guinea pig selfie with guide assist!

Our horchata ingredients from her garden

Citronella

Her adobe oven

The interior

The horchata

Delicado, a cuenca cookie that is like a Christmas cookie

The roaring local guinea pig trade outside the local church

These were smaller and were USD$5 each

The woman in the middle was bringing her guinea pigs to sell. The lady on our right was our guide

Guinea pig trade head honcho. She was happy to also show us how to tell female from male. You essentially squeeze the reproductive parts out...

Homero, my favourite artisan. If I could buy a guitar from him I would!

He shaved these thin pieces of wood and dyes them

Then comes glueing

Cutting into smaller pieces

He has match boxes of different patterns and colours

Glues them together to make patterns

Inlays them for this beautiful piece of art. This guitar took 30 days to make

Another example of his workmanship

He also went through how to make the body of the guitar with various woods

A special indigenous instrument made from armadillo skin!

Now protected, he can only make them if someone brings in an armadillo who happened to be already dead

His tiny dog

The village chulos just weaving! Often weaving hats

The Panama hats are from Ecuador...

Our next stop, Chordeleg, is renowned for its delicate filigree jewellery, a tradition dating back to pre-Columbian times. We visited a family workshop owned by Jara and his extended family, where fine silver wires were twisted and soldered into intricate candongas — ornate chandelier-style earrings that shimmer like lace. It’s painstaking work, passed down through generations, and watching it up close was mesmerising. I may have bought an item, or two, or three...In nearby Gualaceo, known for its textiles and lively food markets, we visited a local weaver who still creates macanas, traditional shawls worn by Cholas Cuencanas, women of mixed Indigenous and Spanish heritage who proudly identify as Cañari. The family now adapts their craft into contemporary designs, keeping the ancient ikat (a term picked up because that was what tourists knew!) dyeing technique alive while ensuring their livelihood endures. Surely my mother would appreciate the tie in to the Indonesian craft of ikat. There goes another purchase.

Our final stop of the day was Guajibamba, one of Cuenca’s most famous restaurants, to try Ecuador’s most iconic (and confronting) delicacy: cuy, or guinea pig. It’s traditionally served on special occasions, complete with tiny paws and teeth - but don’t let that put you off. The verdict? Not bad. Tasted a bit like quail. Crispy skin, decent flavour, questionable meat-to-bone ratio.

This was our last full day in the Ecuadorian Andes, and as we reflected on the experience, one thing stood out: the people. Everywhere we went, we were welcomed into homes and workshops, offered tea, stories, and smiles — all without expectation. Just pure pride in their craft and culture.

Day 7: Strings, silver, and a side of crispy rodent.

Jara who so patiently took us through ALL his machines. None of thus was paid. All voluntary

The silver after it was melted, was slowly make into thinner and thinner thread

There were several machines to help with this, some invented and built in house to save money as the European machines were costly

This was a rough version just so we could see. But 2 fine threads were twisted together for strength then flattened before he would work to bend and twist them into shape

Apparently a simple example of filigree. Thicker metal for support/frame and the filigree to fill in the details

Chordeleg

And old bridge

Gualaceo

Ecuadodrian hawker centre

This lady happily rotate the Cuy for us to see

Not just a juice bar. You could DIY your own "redbull"

She recommended a beer, duck egg, banana, and sugarcane honey

I didn't like it but he chugged it

Once again, they talked us through how they cooked it in the adobe oven and happily gave us samples despite knowing we weren't buying any. They just wanted us to know how it tasted

Forgot to talk about lunch. This time in a hacienda owned by a orchid farm owner

My favourite new drink. Canelazo, a warm Andean cocktail. Yes sounds strange but like a much better version of gluhwein. Usually made with cinnamon, sugar cane alcohol, and naranjilla, mora, or maracuyá juice. 

Lunch was excellent. A BIG difference to our previous hacienda lunch experience. Ceviche

Seafood with rice

Citronella ice-cream. Delicious!

I'll apologise now for the orchid spam. I love them!

I'm sorry I have no hope of naming them

Some unusual shapes

This one so named because it looked like a monkey

Some are teeny tiny and don't even look like orchids

Macana textile weaver

A traditional pattern

Pattern is made by the dyeing process

First he showed us the modern machine. Faster but can only make simple designs albeit much longer lengths

As I said simple

Dyes still made with local natural produce

So many colours possible

Getting Mal to undo some of the "ties"

Patterns that they've done

Very eclectic home

Workshop part of the home

This was how it was done

Matriach Maria Armada. Her son joked that she still had to work to pull her weight! 90 year old and still nimble!

Another traditional weave. SUPER soft

Cuy time!

Could be any deep friend animal to be honest!

What it usually comes with

I forgot to post this earlier. Jara's hand made design. So intricate

The ikat/mancana designs