Saturday 20 May 2023

From the Valley To The Mountain

Good morning from the Sapa Valley!

We were prepared a surprisingly substantial breakfast! The initially "simple" spread kept growing with the addition of warm bread rolls, then pancakes, then bacon, then eggs made to order, followed by the now familiar breakfast pho. The gurgling stream and gentle breeze made for a relaxing family meal. We chose to split ways here with Opa and Oma opting out of the jungle walk. It was probably a good thing because the walk felt like an almost vertical climb at times. Combined with the humidity, the ascent was at times uncomfortable. Sung intelligently stopped at appropriate places to show us edible roots, point out plants and talked about the villagers farming practices. Although most probably she knew we had to rest! We learnt that cinnamon can only be harvested once after growing for 15 years! And that the villagers would hike 3 hours into the jungle to harvest cardamom and would stay there for 2-3 weeks before coming back down. We walked through bamboo forests planted by and for use of the whole village, were treated to vistas of lush green terraced rice fields, and even saw big boldly coloured butterflies. Our final stop was a waterfall, where we got to cool by dipping our feet into the cool water. 

We had time to shower and cool off before an included traditional BBQ lunch. We were then whisked off in a minivan to head to the Topas Ecolodge. We had some inbuilt down time here. So the rest of the day was spent relaxing by the pool, and in our individual stone bungalows enjoying the spectacular mountain view. We were not one to turn down free sundowners! At 5:30pm we dutifully showed up for our pre-dinner drink. Unfortunately the sunset was somewhat marred by clouds. The lodge and its surroundings were gorgeous but for those interested in visiting, beware that the heat can still be oppressive even though it is meant to be cooler being so high up. Additionally, there is wifi only in the common areas.

Started off so simple...with the sweetest passionfruit I've even had

And finished with this. How could we refuse?!

My mother, in the meantime, was ogling the beautiful handiwork of the locals. She was off to find some to buy!

Still breathing at this point

Up was the only direction we went...

The plant used to make purple potato rice

Cinnamon tree with cassava plants in the background used to feed the animals

Preparing the root from a plant of the cardamom family. Sung along with her cousins and siblings used to be sent to the jungle with their wicker baskets to harvest at age 10

Refreshing. Crunchy but rather tasteless like cucumber. Apparently consumed with chilli

Bamboo forest. Anyone in the village can cut down the bamboo for personal use

Waterfall 1

Waterfall 2

Finally we descend! Can actually enjoy the view!

It is the beginning of the rice season. Up here there is only 1 season because of the climate unlike the rest of the country

From the lodge we could see the locals carrying anything and everything across the river

Lunch was a Dao BBQ

Smelt so good. It was worth sitting in the heat to eat!

Beef with mushroom

Accompanied with corn and condiments

bamboo purple sticky rice and pork sausage

Fish, eggplant and zucchini

Sweet potato, looks so simple but was truly delicious

Goodbye to Nam Cang

Hello to Topas Ecolodge. Our welcome cinnamon tea

Saying goodbye to the pint sized Sung

Topas Ecolodge grounds

Our bungalow

Pretty comfortable inside!

Oma and Opa's bungalow next door

View from our bungalow balcony. Pretty impressive!

Huge arse lychees!!!

Enjoying the view pre-swim

The first of two infinity pools. This was the "warm" pool

The "cold' pool was much more comfortable in the heat

So peaceful

Um ok. Hi goat

Free sundowner

Cheers!

Guess who had the alcoholic version!

The restaurant

Included bread and chimichurri

"From Sapa With Love" - had all my favourite flavours! Cardamom, cinnamon, lemongrass, ginger, lime, honey

Dinner again, was pretty good. This is the prawn curry

We had to try the mango and sticky rice. Unfortunately we all unanimously decided the Thai version is better




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