Mashpi Lodge

The view from our room - Mashpi Lodge

We left Quito behind, this time heading 110km northwest to Mashpi Lodge — a luxury ecolodge tucked deep inside Ecuador’s cloud forest. The cloud forest, also known as The Chocó, is famous for two things: relentless rain and ridiculous biodiversity. Mashpi is lush, misty, and absolutely teeming with life. Seventy percent of the forest here is primary growth, which basically means it’s been around forever and looks it.

Our transport from Casa Gangotena left right on 8:00 a.m. (yes, on time - well done to the other 6 passengers). The 3.5-hour journey wound through mountain passes and hairpin bends, so if you’re prone to motion sickness, do yourself a favour and pre-game with whatever miracle meds you swear by. But I promise you it is worth it. When Mashpi finally appeared, it felt like the forest exhaled around us — green stretching endlessly in every direction, mist curling around the treetops like it was straight out of David Attenborough documentary. 

Last photo of roses I promise! Near reception at Casa Gangatena

Hummingbirds just on the side of the road near out restroom break

Long drive...

You know you're rural when you have to share the road

You know you're close when the road changed from asphalt to slush and the mist starting rolling in

Inside, the lodge was sleek and glassy but still managed to feel warm and welcoming — all modern lines and rainforest views. Check-in was a masterclass in efficiency: a quick drone video (because if you don’t appear tiny against an ocean of green, were you even there?), a short intro about the lodge and forest, and a neatly organised activity schedule to keep everyone’s FOMO in check.

Lunch rolled right into our first guided walk at 3 p.m., which wrapped up just in time for happy hour at 6. Then, because apparently we hadn’t had enough adventure, we grabbed our torches and headed out again for a night walk at 7. By dinner, we were happily exhausted and deeply smug about our decision to stay three nights.

Mashpi runs like a well-oiled eco-machine. All meals are included, along with daily guided explorations in the morning and afternoon. Optional extras include night walks (yes, please) and educational talks in the evening. There’s even a “refreshing station” with cool towels and drinks after hikes, plus a drying service — because humidity here sits at a solid 95%, and it rains every single day. Every. Single. Day.

Two species are unique to this area — the Mashpi frog and the Mashpi magnolia, the latter lending its scent to the lodge’s toiletries. You can even buy them (the toiletries, not the frogs) to support local conservation efforts. Our guide, Estuardo, has worked here for eight years and grew up in a nearby community. He told us how the lodge has completely reshaped the locals’ relationship with the forest. These days, 70% of the staff come from surrounding villages, local produce is prioritised, and the lodge supports community projects in education and infrastructure. It’s eco-tourism done properly — the kind that walks the talk.

Estuardo also had the kind of eyesight that made the rest of us question our own evolution. He could spot a camouflaged frog from 20 metres away in the dark while I was still trying to find my torch’s “on” switch.

And that night walk? Honestly, it was far more fascinating than I’d expected. I can now add "frog" to my list of obsessions.

The Albanys are suckers for welcome drinks. Naranjillo and lemongrass

Refreshment station

Dining room

The briefing room. Also the room where presentations/talks are given

Complete with tea/coffee station

Reference library

New species found in Mashpi

I'm on a mission...NEED to see it

The adventure schedule

List of adventures

Map of the adventures

Modern, but the forest always in sight. All interior spaces are kept at 23 degrees celsius to reduce condensation on the glass

Some of the guest rooms. Rooms have de-humidifiers to help keep guests comfortable

Lunch - ceviche. Drink is guayusa, lemon verbena and passionfruit lemonade

Quinoa crusted fish

pumpkin panna cotta

Our room

Backpack and water bottles provided in case you didn't bring any

Bathroom

In-room educational material

Prior to adventures, they put out snacks for you to bring

Fresh fruit on the left, dried fruit and nuts on the right

Each room has their own show rack

The lodge provides rubber boots

When you come in, there is a hosing station

Bug spray, well we are in the forest. It passed the Belinda smell test.

Afternoon walk. And so begins the biology lessons

Even the branches "love" the activities

Wild berries. So vibrant but not edible

Millipede

It is like a "mudroom". You change shoes here, and gather/meet your guide

Happy hour! Mashpi - excellent drink. Pineapple, kaffir lime, basil, chardonnay and ginger

Nightwalk. Or as Mal puts it, CSI Ecuador

Estuardo helping me in my selfie quest. Spiny devil katydid

Here's what they look like front on

Vine snake

Rain frog

Can't remember the name of this one lol

Yellow footed frog

Rain frog but a different species. Sorry Estuardo I wasn't listening...

Butterfly with transparent wings!

This is why we need boots

What a great night walk!

Moth

Cloudy Forest - tangerine from patate, pears, ginger, egg white, angostura bitters

Fig cheesecake