Tuesday, 10 March 2026

The Road to Mustang

We made it to Shinta Mani Mustang!

My favourite line lately seems to be:

“We made it.”

And this time, we really did.

Getting to Shinta Mani Mustang from Rwanda has been an adventure in itself. The plan had been simple enough...fly from Pokhara to Jomsom. But as suspected, the haze hanging over Pokhara meant flights were not operating. The irony? It was actually clear in Jomsom. Unfortunately that doesn’t help much when the plane can’t take off from the other end. So it was time for yet another Plan B.

Fortunately the Shinta Mani team had anticipated this possibility and had already arranged a jeep, driver and guide to be on standby. The call to activate the backup plan came at 8am and we began the five-to-six-hour drive to Jomsom instead.

The route follows the Kali Gandaki Valley, the deepest valley in the world, running between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges. Under normal circumstances the scenery is meant to be spectacular. Unfortunately, thanks to the lingering haze, much of that grandeur remained hidden behind a dusty grey veil.

Still, the journey itself felt significant. Mustang sits in a remote corner of Nepal that for centuries was an isolated Himalayan kingdom, closed to outsiders until the 1990s. Even the name carries a certain poetry. The Tibetan translation of Mustang is the “Plain of Aspiration”.

Breakfast options were suprisingly good! Included a juice bar, made to order eggs station, waffles and more!

Nice change!

Some of the many interesting things available

Perhaps stupidly optimistic at 0620am at the airport

Those little planes were to be our transport if the haze cleared

It was not to be. So jeep it is!

Started off well with roads in good condition

Our view was mostly like this...

Not sure if you can see the massive hives. Hives of Himalayan giant honey bee that produce hallucinogenic honey! Popular with Korean tourists apparently

Second highest bungee jump in the world. Um...no thanks

Tried marsala tea. Really nice!

The road was narrow and not in great conditions in many parts mainly due to landslides in the monsoon season...total distance covered was only 160km but taking 5 hours plus! You get the picture

Weird things along the way like fake yak that you can pictures on

I don't know what this waterfall is called

I'm not sure I trust the bridges...this was one of the better ones

Deepest valley in the world

Finally clear enough that we could at least make out some of the mountain

By around 2pm we finally arrived in Jomsom. From there it was a short drive uphill to our home for the next five nights: Shinta Mani Mustang.

Perched high above the town at an altitude of around 2,850 metres, the lodge overlooks the broad valley floor and the windswept landscape of the region. Even through the haze it felt remote and otherworldly. Staff in colourful uniforms welcomed us warmly, offering cool towels and a mug of warm apple cider before escorting us to lunch.

The resort itself is fully all-inclusive — meals, activities, laundry, spa treatments and massages are all included. It is, frankly, a dangerous concept for people who enjoy spa treatments as much as we do, and also a driver into making the reservation!

Lunch was excellent, and during the meal we were introduced to Rishab, our personal “Adventure Butler”, who would be curating our activities during our stay. We liked Rishab immediately. Particularly when he casually mentioned that our first spa and massage session had already been booked for 3:30pm. Excellent initiative.

The spa area turned out to be spectacular. We were shown to a private room complete with hot bath, steam room, sauna and cold shower. Robes, towels and disposable underwear were thoughtfully provided before our treatments. The massage itself was an hour long and fully customised to our preferences. There was even a private shower in the treatment room afterwards if needed.

Not a bad way to recover from two days of travel chaos.

Yay we made it! The resort driveway

One seriously good warm apple cider, rum was optional

A seriously good cocktail. All included!

Lunch was tasty. This was one of many courses

I suspect they've made this chocolate lava cake many times...so good

Our beautiful room. Shame the views are not clear

You can just make out the mountain in the background

Bathroom with a view

Himalayan salt bricks. Yes for real. Same one we use for our food, except these bricks are for the bath!

Spa time!

Our private space. Hot pool, steam room, sauna, shower

Next! Massage room

Later in the afternoon we attended a short briefing with the lodge manager about the activities available during our stay. Rishab had already prepared a suggested program for us and explained that he would brief us day by day so we wouldn’t feel overwhelmed by the options. The schedule had also been designed with altitude in mind, activities reaching higher elevations would come later in the week once we had more time to acclimatise.

After that it was time for dinner, which once again was excellent. There was a theme every night and we loved the concept!

More importantly, we were finally here. After Rwanda, rerouted flights, visa chaos, lost laptops and a dusty Himalayan road trip, we had made it to Mustang. And the adventure was only just beginning.

A map of the region so we could understand where we were and where we were going to visit

Rupak, in charge of our meals, and explaining the menu. Mustang was once part of the trade route between Nepal, India, & Tibet

The table decorations were items they used to trade! Salt, lentils, copperware. The rocks were "signposts" that they used to help each other with direction

Laphing - cold noodle dish. One of 4 excellent dishes!

Gulab jamun, different taste with the yoghurt but again so good

We love freebies!!!

The kit included essentials for altitude

We even got print out info sheets on our activities


Monday, 9 March 2026

Hello Himalayas

So relieved to make it to Nepal!

Relief was the overwhelming feeling as we finally landed in Nepal. Our Turkish Airlines plan B had worked and we had made it to Kathmandu. Tribhuvan International Airport was smaller than expected, and we landed into a hazy sky, a murky combination of fog, pollution and smoke from a forest fire somewhere in the south.

Our arrival joy lasted approximately five minutes. We had carefully followed the Smart Traveller link and pre-applied for what we thought was a Nepal tourist visa. We marched straight to the immigration queue that said "Tourists with visa"… only to be told at the front of the line that it was the wrong type of visa because it said “Department of Immigration” instead of “Tribhuvan International Airport”.

We were directed to a cluster of visa-on-arrival kiosks instead. The area was already packed with other passengers doing the same thing. Fortunately there was an option to complete the form on our phones, which saved a little time. Once that was done, we joined another line to actually pay for the visa.

For those interested: Nepal accepts a surprising range of currencies including Australian dollars and Singapore dollars. We happily offloaded our spare Singapore cash. Don’t ask me how we had the exact amount.

After that we joined another queue to finally pass through immigration. We were clearly not the only confused passengers because we kept spotting people from our Istanbul flight scattered across the various lines.

Just as things seemed to be moving along, the next wave of stress arrived. I suddenly realised I had left my laptop bag (which was in the nice African print tote we got from Nyungwe!) on the plane. The aircraft was scheduled to depart back to Istanbul in about twenty minutes.

Fortunately we found a helpful staff member at the lost baggage counter who contacted the ground crew to check the aircraft. Meanwhile we were also very aware that we still had a domestic flight to Pokhara to catch.

By the time we cleared immigration, the whole process had taken about an hour and a half. Then came the longest thirty minutes of the day while we waited to see whether the ground staff would retrieve my laptop bag before the aircraft departed. Miraculously, they did. Phew! The bag was returned to us and we now had exactly one hour before our next flight left.

I consider myself a fairly confident traveller, but if I had been any more tired I might have completely decompensated right there in the arrivals hall.

Thankfully we had arranged domestic transfers through Shinta Mani. While we were waiting for news about the laptop bag, they had been messaging us to reassure us that we still had time. When we exited the arrivals area they were waiting for us and immediately transferred us to the domestic terminal.

“Terminal” may be a generous description. It was small, crowded and mildly chaotic. Fortunately our handlers had already checked us in and had staff positioned at various points in the building to guide us along. It was not entirely obvious where to go or what to do, so having that help made a significant difference.

We made it to Nepal!

Eventually we were able to sit down in the domestic departures area and wait for our short flight to Pokhara. We later discovered that Pokhara airport had actually been closed earlier that morning due to poor visibility, which made us even more relieved that our flight was able to depart. When we landed in Pokhara we were once again met at the airport and transferred to our hotel. Unfortunately the haze we had seen in Kathmandu had followed us here. We were told it had been lingering for nearly two weeks.

Pokhara is Nepal’s second-largest city and one of the country’s main tourism hubs. Sitting beside Phewa Lake, it serves as the gateway to the Annapurna region and many of Nepal’s most famous trekking routes, including the Annapurna Circuit and Annapurna Base Camp.

On clear days the city is known for its spectacular mountain backdrop, with views of the Annapurna range and Machapuchare, also known as Fishtail Mountain, along with several of the world’s highest peaks. All we saw was road...and the buildings immediately around us. 

Flights deeper into the Himalayas are notoriously weather-dependent, particularly the short but dramatic flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, which is often cancelled or delayed due to wind and visibility conditions. It was already clear that the next stage of our journey might require a bit of luck.

We had originally planned to walk around the lakeside area, but decided against it to avoid aggravating my asthma. Instead we took the opportunity to visit the cashmere shop just across the road from the hotel. There may have been many purchases made.

Dinner was at the hotel restaurant before we finally called it a night. Tomorrow’s mission: getting to Jomsom and our final destination, Shinta Mani Mustang.

Fingers crossed.

Smiling now that we made it out of the international terminal with ALL our belongings

The domestic terminal

Someone dropping our checked luggage for us

Who knows why we chose to have a matcha bubble tea in Nepal. It tasted weird

Onto a bus to board our flight

Twin prop turbo

The view did not change from take off to landing. Couldn't tell haze apart from clouds

Glad to have survived this flight! It was very bumpy at times

Pokhara airport is modern! However China/India politics prevent it from being used internationally

This was the best view we're gonna get

Rhododendron tea

Hotel is very comfortable for just an overnight stop

Spacious

Himalayan trout for dinner. Only so so at best