Apple Paradise

Our gift today is home made jam from Mrs Kamala!

We were loving the increasingly civilised start times. Today’s adventure didn’t begin until 9am, which in the context of this trip felt practically indulgent. Our morning began with a short hike that involved crossing one of the many several suspension bridges that we had seen spanning the Kali Gandaki River. These long steel bridges are common across Nepal’s trekking routes, linking villages that would otherwise be separated by steep valleys and fast-moving rivers.

They are extremely sturdy. They are also extremely high. And when the Mustang winds pick up, they sway just enough to remind you that you are, in fact, walking across a metal ladder suspended above a Himalayan river.

From there we continued hiking towards Thini Village, one of the oldest settlements in the area. The trail climbed steadily, and while we could have continued. We decided to give our legs and cardiovascular systems a rest for the day.

We opted for a change of transport. The next section of the journey was done on horseback. Horse travel has been part of life in Mustang for centuries. Before roads reached the region, horses and mules were the primary way goods and people moved through the valleys, particularly along the ancient salt trade routes that once connected Tibet with Nepal and India.

Our horses carried us onward to Dhumba Lake and the nearby Khutsab Terenga Monastery. Dhumba Lake is considered sacred by local communities, and the monastery nearby plays an important role in protecting the spiritual balance of the valley. The setting itself was peaceful, surrounded by rugged hills and prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

I mean that looks safe

We just follow Rishab

The view along the crossing

I was wondering why the window was so ornate, and discovered that this building used to be the palace of the Thini Kingdom

Hello friends!

Mal looked too big for his horse

Dhumba Lake

Very glad to be on horseback on the very steep climb to the monastery!

Khutsab Terenga Monastery built in 15th century

Major restoration was done in the 1950s

So good to be short here

Thank you friend for giving my lungs a break and for being a good horse

Time to brave another bridge

After exploring the area we continued on to Marpha, a well-known stop for pilgrims travelling to Muktinath Temple, one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for both Hindus and Buddhists.

Marpha also has another claim to fame. It was the filming location for a popular Nepalese romantic film called Jerryy. The movie became something of a cultural phenomenon here, and apparently there is now a sequel called Jerryy on Top.

Marpha itself is one of the prettiest villages in the region. Narrow stone alleyways wind between whitewashed houses, many decorated with neatly stacked firewood and rows of apples drying in the mountain air. Prayer flags flutter overhead while mule caravans occasionally clatter through the streets, reminding you that this village has long been a trading stop along the Himalayan routes.

We stopped in Marpha at the home of Mrs Kamala, where she served us a traditional Thakali lunch. The area is also famous as the apple country of Nepal. And when I say apples, I mean apples in every possible form.

Apple juice.
Apple wine.
Apple brandy.
Apple crumble.
Apple tea.

At this point we were essentially apple-adjacent humans.

Back at Shinta Mani Mustang we resumed what had clearly become our official afternoon routine: spa and massage. This was followed by our second sound healing session, which we were now very much looking forward to. Mal, apparently now super comfortable, brought his own pillows and towels to the session and managed to become the first person ever to lie on his stomach, much to the amusement of the sound healer. The sound healer, incidentally, has the most soothing, sleep-inducing voice imaginable. If relaxation could be delivered via vocal frequency alone, he would be a global phenomenon.

Later that evening we had dinner and chatted with one of the lodge’s management team, who mentioned that Shinta Mani Mustang is planning to open a property in Upper Mustang.

Upper Mustang remains one of the most restricted regions in Nepal. The area was closed to foreigners until 1992, and even today visitor numbers are tightly controlled through a special permit system designed to protect the fragile culture and environment.

Permits currently cost around USD 500 for the first ten days, which works out to roughly USD 50 per day, and travellers must visit with a registered guide. Naturally, we are already thinking about coming back in five years.

During dinner we also discovered that one of the other guests apparently knows the owner personally. Which means their stay here is complimentary...Where, I ask, are my rich friends when I need them?

The pretty village of Marpha

Mrs Kamala's home and our lunch venue

The lady herself preparing our meal

Plating

Apple wine

Voila! A most delicious meal

Pouring ghee onto the rice

Apple everything...out of shot was the apple brandy

This alley was made famous by the movie Jerryy

We struggled to work out what theme this book could represent

The traditional tea houses had no power back then, and thus entertainment was basic eg reading!

Looks weird but was tasty, a rich soup with potato foam on top

Wild mushroom bao. So good!