Tuesday, 30 June 2026

Hut to Hut Hike - Alpina Capanna to Rifugio Fanes

Mountain spring water

Day one of the hut-to-hut hike. Manuela drove us to San Cassiano, where we set off into the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park — a 25,000-hectare protected area in the heart of the Dolomites, established in 1980 and home to chamois, ibex, marmots, and eagles, among other things that are better at altitude than we are. Our route would take in a section of the Alta Via 1, one of the most iconic long-distance trekking routes in the Alps, stretching 125 kilometres from Lake Braies in the north all the way to Belluno.

Manuela had presented us with options of varying difficulty. We briefly considered the hardest — also, naturally, the most scenic — before yesterday's cycling legs cast a decisive vote. The "easiest" option it was, which also bought us an extra half hour in bed. A win.

The trail began at Capanna Alpina with a forty-minute uphill climb to Col de Locia, after which it levelled out into a gentler path of rolling ups and downs through pristine alpine landscape. The kind I never seem to tire of, for the record. Lunch was at the small and rather charming Rifugio Gran Fanes, tucked into the plateau.

Manuela had suggested we might explore further trails upon reaching Rifugio Fanes, our lodging for the night, as options abound. That did not happen. We were simply glad to have arrived. We relaxed until dinner — simple, hearty mountain food — and called it a very adequate day.

The most stylish latte glass I've seen

My hiking pack for our 3 day hike. I'm happy with my effort! My normal travel backpack to the right for comparison

Our starting point of Capanna Alpina

I promise we did not set out to be matchy matchy. Ewghh

The first of many ascents (written in retrospect...)

Wildflower a plenty

I really should google all the different types because I love them!

Looking back down to Val Badia

The top grassy plateau behind Malcolm on the right was where we cycled up to yesterday

Snack time brought to you by...Singapore Airlines!

I never tire of seeing this

Hurray for rolling hills!

The setting was so magical, these horses should really be unicorns! Just so hard to capture on camera the feel of the place

Even the cows were happy and content

Postcard views

Lunchtime!

This was just called mountain pasta. Essential speck with cheese

We are hiking a part of the Alta Via 1

Somewhere down there was our rifugio for the night

Rifugio Fanes. Simple but very comfortable

Yay we don't have to sleep in the elements tonight!

We celebrated with a very yummy apple strudel. Strudels are not usually one my favourite desserts so that says a lot!

Salute!

All huts have boot rooms. Ski boots in winter and hiking boots in summer. You wear slippers inside

Our basic but very clean room. This was a private room with our own bathroom. Most rifugios are on a dorm basis.

View from our window/door

Our bathroom. Not all rifugios provide toiletries. If they do, it is very basic usually an all in one soap/shampoo


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