Mai Chau & Pu Luong

 

Mai Chau

Our group set off for Mai Chau today, a scenic three-hour drive that promised sweeping vistas. We stopped briefly at Thung Khe Pass, touted as one of Vietnam's top 10 most beautiful passes. Unfortunately for us, the universe had other plans, and the view was more "partially obstructed by cloud" than "picture-postcard perfect." Fortunately for us, that same cloud cover meant no direct sun, a blessing we’d come to appreciate later in the day!

Mai Chau is the serene home of the Thai ethnic minority. We were treated to a delicious lunch of local cuisine before continuing our exploration of Mai Chau on two wheels of the non-motorised type. Our guide led us on a leisurely circuit through charming local villages, past vibrant green rice fields, and beneath the dramatic backdrop of limestone mountains. It was rice harvesting season, so the fields were alive with farmers diligently at work, many of whom were happy to pause, interact, and share a chat with us as we pedaled by. It’s always incredible to connect with the local community in such an authentic way. 

We met Mrs. Mang, a local artisan who happily demonstrated the intricate art of weaving their beautiful traditional cloths. While she worked her magic, our guide provided fascinating insights into the daily life of the Thai minority, sharing how they passionately maintain their ancient traditions and customs in a rapidly changing world. 

Eventually, it was time to ditch the bicycles and hop back on the bus for another 1.5 hour drive to Pu Luong. For the next 2 nights, we are staying at the Pu Luong Retreat within the Pu Luong Nature Reserve. By the time we pulled in, it was almost 6 PM, just enough time for a speedy check-in before heading straight to dinner at the nearby restaurant.

We were headed up the mountain

View back down to the valley from Thung Khe Pass. What was obstructed were the mountains beyond the valley

Snails anyone?! Massive ones for sale for eating

Our lunch venue

Lunch

Weaving done by the locals

Our mode of transport for exploring Mai Chau

Rice paddies everywhere you look with granite mountains

Harvested rice stacked on the sides of the roads

Farmers still doing everything by hand

Mrs Mang showing us how they weave. She does it regardless, not just for the tourists

A little bit of bamboo dancing

Mrs Mang takes about 3-5 days to finish a simple scarf

It was very serene

Our bus stopping at the roadside entrance to Pu Luong Retreat

The official description for the evening activities read: "GALA DINNER at the restaurant with a menu of local specialties, take part in a cultural exchange featuring traditional Thai dance performances, joyful bamboo dancing, and a taste of Tube wine – a signature local rice wine, shared in a warm and festive atmosphere." Now, "cultural exchange" turned out to be the wonderfully enthusiastic local owner moderating a hilarious round of "hello" and "thank you" in the various languages of the guests, as well as in the local Thai minority dialect. It was good fun, so long as you had willing participants – which, thankfully, she did!

And as with any good Asian hospitality, "warm and festive" inevitably involved a golden microphone making an appearance for some impromptu karaoke, albeit mostly undertaken by our Vietnamese Go-Indochine hosts. A party would not be complete without undertaking some decidedly daggy dancing to the universally recognized tune of YMCA. We really must have perfected the party vibe as we had random guests from other tables enthusiastically join in, throwing themselves into the routine with far more gusto than our jet-lagged group. The locals, bless their hearts, were aghast that half our group wanted to call it a night at 10:30pm!

One of 2 pools at the property

My spacious room

The bathroom

Shower

View from my balcony

Traditional dance

Partaking in tube wine

Smoked duck. Local specialty

More bamboo dancing, and yes it was joyful!

Pu Luong Retreat: An Honest Review

For those considering a visit, a few notes on Pu Luong Retreat. We were told it's one of the more expensive options in the area, and it's easy to see why, given the region's relatively undeveloped status compared to the more established Sapa. The retreat itself is perched high on a hill, offering truly phenomenal views. This stunning vantage point, however, means it presents a challenge for anyone with mobility impairments. There are numerous stairs and steep inclines from the main road to the resort, and also between the rooms and public areas.

While the rooms were comfortable, they lacked the refined polish found in true luxury hotels in Sapa. There was a noticeable inconsistency in presentation; some areas were beautifully maintained, while others appeared a bit rundown. The staff, as is common in Vietnam, were friendly, but the service could be hit or miss.

So, is it worth visiting? Absolutely. Just go in with the right expectations. Its biggest advantage is that you gain access to the raw beauty and authentic experience of Pu Luong at a significantly lower price point than the high-end resorts you'd find in Sapa.