FLIGHT OF THE PHOENIX: Bratislava

Saturday, 4 January 2020

Bratislava

When in Bratislava you eat a Bratislava roll!

It was a nice feeling knowing that today would be the last day to recite the winter checklist... "Have you got your gloves, jacket, scarf etc". Amazingly, none of the kids' winter supplies have gone missing. Go team! Hopefully this will not jinx us for a sudden snap freeze in Lisbon or LA!
Today was also our last official day of the tour. The olds were relieved that we drove to Bratislava castle rather than walking there...

As with many buildings in Europe, the original building was simple and was built a LONG time ago, this one sometime in the 9th. Fast forwarding centuries of history...Bratislava became an important city, being the coronation city and seat of the Hungarian Kings thus the castle was expanded & remodelled many times over the years, the most significant one during the reign of Maria Theresa.

The next castle complex we visited was in vast contrast, sitting in ruins atop a rocky cliff since it was destroyed by Napolean. Devin Castle sat at the Confluence of the Danube and Morava River. It was significant in more recent history, as the line of the Iron Curtain went through here up until 1989. Across the Morava River, mere metres away, was the "West" and the promise of freedom. There was a memorial to those who had lost their lives trying to cross as well as a small exhibition on the "Iron curtain" here which had taken physical form.

Bratislava castle. Statue of Svatopluk of Moravia

Looking from the castle grounds across the Danube to the biggest complex of communist buildings

Just beyond the fog is Austria

Battle jump

Our first glimpse of Devin Castle

Mucking around on a frozen pond. The middle looked unfrozen but was actually a shallow layer of water above ice!

Confluence of the Moravia and Danube. Many have lost lives trying to get from "East" to "West" in the days of the Iron Curtain. Jonah is standing in Slovakia. The trees just across the water on the right of the picture is Austria

A monument to those who have lost their lives from the attempted crossing

The oldest part of Devin Castle

The second oldest. And I didn't take a good photo of the third...

Martin demonstrating to the children just how deep the well is, based upon how long it took for the water to reach the bottom

Amazing views from the top!

We returned to the Old Town of Bratislava for our last Slovak meal and had our very last old town walking tour in the afternoon. Our last group meal tonight would be at a Caucasian (ie those from Caucasus, eg Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia) restaurant, Nobile. It was another great pick by Peter and his team. The food was excellent, so much so that the children requested to visit Georgia...

We all had heavy hearts at dinner. As we reminisced about wonderful memories, it was sad knowing that tomorrow it would end. Both tours had been amazing and I would highly recommend both companies (Tours of Romania for our Bulgarian and Romanian legs, and Best Slovakia Tours for our Czech and Slovak legs) Both were easy to work, quick to respond, friendly and professional. Our guides and drivers were phenomenal! Often DIY people, Mal and I were so grateful not to have to plan and THINK for each day! Our "walking tours" had been a highlight - we "discovered" so many things that we would have simply walked straight past without local knowledge. We also racked up enough steps to partially offset all those dumplings.

A few random thoughts in no particular order. We were very glad we visited Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia, Czech Republic & Poland. We didn't realise how very little we knew about the area and the people. The richness of their history & culture, as well as the impact of communism was a big learning point. As we visited in the low season, there were very few tourists in most places. In some places, I did not see any other Asian. This was ok with us! If you do have physical limitations, I would advise caution as many sites are not as "accessible" as well established tourist sites. Often, there were steep hills or stairs to climb with nary an elevator in site. Cobblestone lined streets were not uncommon especially in old towns. These would make it hard for those with big large suitcases so pack as lightly as possible. This would also come in handy if you wanted to stay in quaint establishments in old towns. Many would not have lifts and some of the stairs are steep, so be sure you are able to channel your inner mountain goat while carrying your luggage.

With that, we end one chapter of our jounery and begin another. Goodbye, Wayne and Luan. Hello, Lisbon!